Bitter Sweet Cocktails, Soho

The ‘iconic’ Kingly Club, just off Carnaby Street, was once the hallowed drinking den of stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant and Oliver Reed. However, as these names suggest, that was some time ago. Fast forward to 2012, and you’ll discover a whole new venture, Bitter Sweet, which has been headed up by the team behind Dirty Martini, Covent Garden.

My best description of the interior would be as if Katy Perry was handed a B&Q charge card and told to ‘go nuts’. Think pink and orange lighting, large silhouette murals, mirrors and dimly-lit booths with padded interiors. It’s camp, cosy and chic – if a little too on the nose – but it certainly packs some gusto (which should be applauded), and unless you have a stick up your arse you might just find it strangely charming.

While a range of bottled beers, wines and spirits (etc.) are available, Bitter Sweet is definitely a cocktail bar, with a particular penchant for the use of bitters (hence the name). Nestling into one of the booths (a must if you can), I began my evening there by sampling some of the signature cocktails from the menu. First up was the Vanilla Monk, a very sweet concoction of vanilla vodka, Frangelico, Kahlua and fresh cream. ‘It’s like a bowl of tiramisu made love to a White Russian,’ my companion blurted out before I’d even finished my first sip. I am inclined to agree – but that’s a good thing; I like tiramisu and White Russians.

If that sounds a little too sweet for your palette, the Bitter Sweet Iced Tea offers a take on the classic Long Island, with fresh grapefruit and lemon juice, Orgeat syrup, Plymouth gin and breakfast tea. A nice combination well worth a try, and not as potent at the Long Island. From the rest of the menu, other recommendations include the refreshing Lychee and Ginger Mule (fresh ginger and lychee/lemon juice, Plymouth gin and ginger ale) and the classic Pisco Sour. One you must try is the Sazerac  – a debauched marriage of Woodfords Reserve Bourbon, Martell Cognac, Peychaud bitters, Angostura bitters and sugar, topped off with the pleasure of an Absinthe-rinsed glass.  It takes time to make it behind the bar, but the result is well worth the wait.

There are many, many more cocktails I never got around to trying, but hopefully they will all stand up to the same variation, quality and solid flavours of the ones I sampled. At £8.50 and up, they are still in the ‘reasonable’ price range, but if you visit during the regular happy hours (Mon-Thur 5-10pm; Fri/Sat 5-8pm) you will find many for half price (as you will bottles of wine), while bottles of beer for £2.50 and reduced price Champagne also feature.

Apparently, Bitter Sweet is still officially a member’s club, but currently membership is free via their website, so sign up to avoid missing out. In return you will get a very affable central London drinking spot that – while maybe won’t host quite the A-list clientele of old – should keep everyone inside very happy until 3am.

One final note: If you can find it on your first attempt, you should seriously consider taking up orienteering…

Bitter Sweet
4 Kingly Court
Soho
W1B 5PW

Tel: 0844 371 2550