Zumbura, Clapham

A problem of living in London is that due to the hectic pace of life we are living quite separate lives with not much in the way of collective activity. Everyone is dotted around the different boroughs and whilst we occasionally might meet up for a meal or some drinks, there is little in the way of a regular get together. Having a neighbourhood restaurant where you see the same people on a weekly basis is a rare phenomenon to see.

Which is why my visit to Clapham’s Zumbura, a newly opened Indian restaurant, was such an interesting occasion. It is a small space with diners packed in close. There was the sense that a lot of the people eating there were regulars, giving rise to an atmosphere that was intense yet inoppressive and laid back.

The set up of the restaurant is Indian tapas with small dishes for sharing. My companion and I started with the aloo tikia, which are spiced potato cakes, along with shami kebabs, soft flat lamb kebabs. The joy of being able to share these dishes is tempered by the fact that they get pulled apart and scoffed immediately. Just when you thought you were able to get one more bite of the excellent shami kebabs, you look up to see your companion popping the last piece in his mouth. There’s no time for a shake of the fist as that hand should be grabbing whatever remains.

We then went on to the machli ka salan, a pollock fish curry with mustard seeds and fenugreek. For me, this was a little overseasoned but my companion insisted that I did not know what I was talking about as he ladled successive spoons on to his plate.

I was much more impressed by the karela, a bitter gourd with lentils. The way in which it had been slowly cooked gave it an excellent depth of flavour. Another choice option was the aloo ki tarkari, a spicy potato curry.

We each finished on a rose kulfi. It is such a simple dessert that it does not require excessive verbiage to commend its qualities. All that you need to know is that it affords you a childish pleasure as you wolf it down.

Zumbura offers that unique experience not often found in London, the chance to be welcomed into a place and to be considered not just a diner or a customer but a guest. It’s convivial with smashing food and is a place that feels like you can just drop in at any time.

Zumbura
36a Old Town
Clapham
SW4 0LB