The Charles Lamb Pub

As London becomes ever commercialised, with its streets becoming homogenised and its shops identikit versions of branches found in every borough, it’s refreshing to find a place that cherishes its heritage and its uniqueness.

Tucked away in the lower reaches of Islington is the Charles Lamb pub, named after a noted resident of the area. Charles Lamb was a writer and publisher, a contemporary of Shelley and a man who came up with the fantastic quote: ‘I am often late to the office but I always make up for it by leaving early’.

A friend and I dropped in after a pre-prandial drink at 69 Colebrooke Row, which is run by the same people who are behind the Charles Lamb. We stepped into the venue to find a convivial atmosphere and a roaming dog named Mascha. It was quite a dandyish hound, sporting a red neckerchief and circling the tables like a New York socialite.

My companion and I started with the minestrone soup and smoked salmon tart. My companion was very content with his soup, which came with the unconventional addition of pasta. The smoked salmon tart was pretty reasonable too, although a little on the buttery side.

For main, I ventured for the pig’s cheek in cider with parsnip and rosemary mashed potato, while my companion went for the mushroom tartiflette. In a sense, it was typical fare that one might expect from an Islington pub that serves food, robust yet with a sense of delicacy and nuance. Both dishes were cooked to give substance and a great deal of satisfaction.

The mushroom tartiflette was well-balanced in terms of its flavours and the chef did not make a pig’s ear out of the pig’s cheek, making the meat tender and exceedingly flavoursome. The one disappointment was the mash, which was not as creamy as I would have hoped for.

To finish off, my companion and I went for a chocolate brownie and a marsala and sherry tiramisu respectively.  The chocolate brownie was as consummate as one might expect for a simple dessert, neither overly rich nor stodgy. I was interested in how the addition of sherry might affect the taste of a tiramisu in addition to the more conventional marsala wine. The result was a less potent tiramisu, the sherry taking the edge of the sweetness of the marsala, although still a pleasant dessert.

It is just the right time of the year for a pub like the Charles Lamb. It is a charming place to drop in, enjoy a friendly atmosphere and decent food. Just don’t give any of it to Mascha.

The Charles Lamb
16 Elia Street
Islington
N1 8DE

Tel: 020 7837 5040