The Tommyfield

I was once walking around a DVD store in Paris and came across a copy of the film East is East. Except that it wasn’t labelled as East is East – the French edition of the film had seen it given another title, albeit still in English. The name given to the story of a mixed race family growing up in Manchester during the 1970s? Fish ‘n’ Chips.

So closely is this combination of seafood and potatoes linked to England and Englishness that Fish ‘n’ Chips was thought to be the most appropriate title for a film detailing the difficulties of dealing with racial tensions in urban communities. It does seem a little unfair. You wouldn’t expect to see Amelie repackaged as Gitannes and Baguettes or more frighteningly, Last Tango in Paris to be retitled as I Can’t Believe it’s Not Butter.

It is often reported that fish and chips have been overtaken by other dishes as the national dish and this reflects the greater sophistication applied to English cuisine. Fish and chips highlights everything that was bad about old English food; stodgy, unimaginative and quite bland. However, this is not to say that the dish can’t be party to the same reinvention that has been applied to other foods.

Evidence of this was on display at the Tommyfield, a revamped version of the venue which used to be the White Hart pub. The restaurant is named after the first fish and chip shop in the Tommyfield market in Oldham and is decked out in a sleek industrial style, although its pin-stripe canopies are a nod to its 19th century origins.

The menu is a mixture of set dishes and daily specials. I started with the seared scallops, while my companion delved into a British meat board, which featured an overwhelming selection of terrines and cheeses. Whilst my scallops were neatly delivered, I looked up to see my companion goggle-eyed at the sheer variety on offer, being so impressed as to take out his camera-phone to capture the sheer size of the dish. It says something that he had to shift his chair back in order to try to fit everything into frame.

For the main course, I chose the battered pollock, while my companion took on the pork tenderloin and crispy belly. I was intrigued by what the restaurant could do with what is quite a bland fish. Unfortunately, they were not able to invigorate it a great deal and my companion, while enjoying the tenderness of the tenderloin, struggled with the uncompromising belly.

However, the desserts exemplified a modern British approach, taking old favourites and applying an unexpected twist. My companion’s Eton Mess was redone as a knickerbocker glory, with blueberries and meringue smashed together to create a glorious dish. My banoffee pie was uplifted by an accompanying dessert wine, which underlined the thoroughness applied to every aspect of the menu.

The Tommyfield may not be a place that you come to for the food in itself but it does make a very good complement to what is a very flexible venue. It’s a place for families, for pints with friends, and those looking for a hearty supper. And can you honestly say that about your local chippie?

The Tommyfield
185 Kennington Lane
Kennington
SE11 4EZ

Tel: 020 7735 1061