British summer - a depressing oxymoron that finally came to a head this year when the sun decided to call it a day some time in May. Hence it was with some trepidation that I headed over to Restaurant Sauterelle to sample a new French-inspired - but London located - summer menu from head chef Robin Gill.

Nestled on the mezzanine floor of the opulent Royal Exchange in Bank, Sauterelle has rightfully let the beautiful surroundings of this grade one-listed building do the talking. However, such listing hath also decreed that the proprietors housed within cannot build their own toilet facilities. Thus, prepare yourself for the (actually very amusing) precession of well-dressed punters scuttling down to the basement level from all over the building like lines of desperate, over-watered ants.

The summer menu begins with an inclusive glass of Nyetimber, a west-Sussex sparkling wine which kicks you off with a seductively fizzy bang. I have to say it is as good as any sparkling wine I have tasted before, and the fact it’s from just down the road makes it a real winner. However, this somewhat clouds whether it is a French or British summer they have in mind. I’m seeing a fusion here…

My first course came in the form of tomato gazpacho with ricotta and courgette, and immediately it became apparent that bold flavours were not the intention, nor were hearty portion sizes. Instead, focus was placed on a fresh, tasty but modest amount of food which allowed you to continue conversation unfettered. This theme continued into the next two courses as well: first, a salmon confit with beetroot, sorrel and horseradish, and then onto crab ravioli with sapphire, cucumber and lemongrass. Both were perfectly cooked, nicely presented and very fresh, but nothing reached up to slap me across the face.

That was, however, until the next course of slow-cooked lamb, sweetbreads and caper parsley sauce. A definite peak in the meal, silence came over me as I tucked in to a very accomplished dish with much stronger flavours, and arguably it actually represented British summer more aptly. Finally, a dessert duo of chilled watermelon soup and vanilla panna cotta were a very satisfying, sweet finish.

The food was certainly at a high standard, but apart from the lamb the flavours were just a little shy for my taste. After all, this isn’t the south of France – I need a little more gusto to help me hold up my umbrella on the way home. Nevertheless, I am sure many people will love it.

Now, here’s the rub: the summer menu is £28 including a glass of Nyetimber. Good value, yes? Well, although I was pleasantly filled from my six-course affair, the actual summer menu is rather cheekily paced at four courses, foregoing the crab and watermelon. Therefore, I have a suspicion many gentleman diners will still be mildly peckish when they leave. That being said, Sauterelle is an impressive dining experience with top-class service and a clearly ambitious chef. Pop along and pick from a menu you feel comfortable with.

Restaurant Sauterelle
The Royal Exchange
Bank
EC3V 3LR

Tel: 020 7618 2483