Clockjack Oven, Piccadilly

Recently I decided I didn’t have enough places to stock up on hearty, protein-filled grub if I was feeling inspired post gym (OK, so that is rare to say the least). I know they are out there, but venues designed to pile your plate up with lean meat, fish and veg seem either seem uninspiring, too expensive (yes, I’m looking at you Whole Foods) or with too much belly-busting accoutrement thrown in to ruin much of the good intention.

For me, good old chicken is still one of the best meats for those looking to guzzle down a protein-packed dinner while still avoiding overdoing it on the calorie front. Thus when I received an invite for new chicken joint Clockjack Oven, I wondered if I would finally have a new contender for my hearty, healthy hotspot. Turns out I did.

One footstep into this Piccadilly venue and you will be acutely aware that rotisserie chicken is the backbone (no pun intended) of the menu. Swathes of spinning free-range birds roast seductively in the flame-sprouting ovens lining the walls, and even while you are glancing at the menu for an idea of where your taste buds will lead you, the heady bouquet of roasted chook en masse is a true carnivorous delight.

Offered in portion sizes ranging from ‘peckish’ (three pieces; £6.95), ‘hungry’ (four; £8.95) or ‘whole’ (10; £18.95), your bird du jour (I am told they are indeed French) arrives in succulent pieces that are left on the bone. It is chicken done with love, and the quality and flavour of Clockjack’s meticulously-sourced birds is left largely untarnished. But of course chicken relies on the company of friends, so to bolster your dish you have a number of options.

If you want to do that gym session proud, opt for one of their basic salads (£3.95). Or, you could move further into the naughty category with the Clockjack Torpedo sandwich (buttermilk bun, marinated chicken, and oozing with sauce for £6.95) or simple double-fried chips and coleslaw for about £3 each. You can also get saucy with a range of Ranch, BBQ, chilli or gravy additions for 50p.

On this occasion I was beholden to the menu provided for me, so I am delighted to say I also ate some of their wonderful sharing plates as well (£4-6). The buttermilk and gram flour-coated crispy chicken bites were a real treat dipped in the sauce of your choice, as were the crispy sage and onion stuffing balls and the sticky BBQ chicken wings. Yes, yes – I know I had ruined my simple protein and salad quest but I did it for you, dear reader. At least I was so full from the wonderful plates I sampled that I couldn’t try dessert. I’ll leave that up to you.

Even without mentioning the speedy delivery, friendly staff and comfortable no-nonsense atmosphere, Clockjack Oven is now firmly on my list of great places to grab a top-notch plate of chicken. With options ranging from the supremely simple to the more naughty and nice, it may not be designed as a place to entertain, but it’s definitely a place to dine. And frankly, if you even think about going to Nandos when places like this exist, you’re crazy.

Clockjack Oven
14 Denman Street
Piccadilly
W1D 7HJ

Tel: 020 7287 5111