Great Balls of Fire at The Drift

There is something primitive that is awoken in us whenever a flame whooshes into the air. Whether it is the combination of a lighter and deodorant or a bonfire untamed for the briefest of moments, that temporary bloom of ions, colours and potential danger makes for a thrilling spectacle. The flames coming off a flambé are another way in which to make an arresting sight, although they haven’t been seen in a while. This style of cooking went out of fashion but is making a comeback at The Drift, the restaurant/bar in the heart of the City.

In true flambé style, the ingredients for the dishes are brought out on a cruise ship-style trolley. They are here along with the type of gas burner that all the keen kids had on Duke of Edinburgh trips – while I thought I could get along by cooking sausages with a cigarette lighter and a steady thumb.

The flames don’t get going until the main course and the starter of prawn salad of prawn cocktail had me wishing that the pyrotechnics would soon begin. The dish had a rather anaemic sauce and an unwelcome crunch to the prawns.

But all this was soon forgotten as the trolley was wheeled out and we were invited to take our pick from one of the three dishes available to be cooked in front of us. I plumped for the Steak Diane. In went the filet mignon to be fried in butter. The sauce was put together with shallots, butter, beef stock, cream and Worcestershire sauce.

Then came the time for the big blow out. The chef held the pan so as to concentrate the heat on a small area of it. This was done in order to make sure that there was enough heat to ignite the brandy, which was then poured. Edging backwards as the liquid hit the pan, we were treated to a grand display of well-controlled flames.

But did it produce a good steak? I mean, these party tricks are well and good but unless they are producing good quality steaks, then what’s the point? Fortunately, the steak along with the sauce were lip-smackingly good. I was going to point out to the chef that the accompanying potatoes were a little oversalted but I decided not to argue with a man who can direct flame.

The flambé menu comes in at £27.95 for three courses or £45.95 if you decide to add accompanying cocktails with each course. That £18 add-on might seem a bit of a jump but given that you would normally pay £7-8 for a cocktail, £18 for three is actually pretty reasonable. Just remember that if you go for the cocktails, make sure you keep them away from the guy doing the cooking. Your eyebrows will be eternally grateful.

The Drift
Heron Tower
110 Bishopsgate
The City
EC2N 4AY

Tel: 0845 468 0103

Image by ewen and donabel courtesy of Flickr