Belgravia’s Rib Room

You know you’re in a posh part of town when you see a Coutt’s ATM. For those of you are unaware of this particular British institution, it’s a bank where you are required to have at least half a million in disposable funds before you can open an account. Put it another way, it’s where the Queen banks. Not literally of course. I expect there is someone else who stands in line, desperately trying to remember the royal sort code.

I passed the well to do hole in the wall on my way to dine at the Rib Room, which has had a completely new refit in the past year. The revamp has served it well with the open kitchen now hidden away and the bar relocated to make it a more inviting prospect to those looking to drop in for a simple drink.

The décor is elegant and classy, very similar to that of Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard. There are three private dining areas as well as a forthcoming cigar terrace. Even more promising was the revelation that the menu has been overseen by none other than Ian Rudge, head chef at the Michelin-starred Northcote Manor in Lancashire.

One innovation that has already caught on at the restaurant is that of the wine list being condensed down onto an iPad. Instead of trying to navigate through a bulky compendium, simply flick through to find a wine. Although a welcome development, it could benefit from providing a little more information about the wines and what they would work well with.

For starter, I plumped for the roasted lamb sweetbreads, caramalised cauliflower and toasted almonds. Sweetbreads are always difficult to get exactly right and I found mine to be the wrong side of chewy. However, the combination with the cauliflower and almonds was much more successful.

For my main course, I chose the rack of Cornish lamb with shallot compote and Jerusalem artichoke. The lamb was wonderfully done with a pleasing sturdiness to the meat and a fulsome accompaniment by the shallot and artichoke.

After such a hearty dish, it was time for a little slump back into my chair. Looking down the dessert menu, I saw one dish that I might be able to fit in. I lucked out on the white chocolate and cardamom set cream with coffee and whisky jelly. Not only because it drew an admiring glance from the person taking my order, not only because it was probably the only thing my stomach could manage but also because it was rich and complex without being too heavy.

The revamp of the restaurant has been substantial, and there is much to admire about a place that after 50 years is going the right way to becoming an institution. You might not get much change out of £50 for three courses but there’s always an ATM round the corner if you need more cash.

The Rib Room Bar & Restaurant
Jumeirah Carlton Tower
Cadogan Place
Knightsbridge
SW1X 9PY