Warren Street’s MUSHU

In Britain, we often forget that eating is meant to be a social activity. We lead such hectic lifestyles, whizzing around and only using meal times as miniature pit stops in order to recharge ourselves for our next hectic leap forward.

Our modern culture does not allow us the time to sit down and enjoy food with friends or family. Fortunately, the cosmopolitan aspect of London means that other cultures are welcomed and can remind us of the simple pleasures of conversing and sharing food.

One example is the Spanish with their slow food culture and tapas. In addition to this is the concept of the Japanese ‘izakaya’ bar, which encourages people to come together and sit down for food.

This ethos was certainly on display when I entered MUSHU. The set up of long tables and low-level music encouraged a lively atmosphere of chatting and vigorous exchanges. The kitchen is placed in the centre of the restaurant, which allows customers to look on as their food is prepared. That is, of course, if you are not deeply involved in conversation.

I started with six pieces of salmon maki (£4.20) and nasu dengaku (£4.95). The maki was sumptuous, as you might expect for something freshly made. The nasu dengaku, half an aubergine baked with sweet miso sauce, was rather special with the normally drab aubergine transformed into an exquisite dish.

One of my favourite Japanese dishes is potsticker dumplings, simply for the fact that these fried dumplings are called ‘potstickers’. It is the sense of hardiness that is evoked by the name. These dumplings are staying in there, despite the incredible heat being applied to them.

I also picked out the vegetable water dumplings, which are boiled rather than fried. Both of these were delightful, with the beef and kimichi filling going very well with the hard exterior of the potsticker dumplings, and the water dumplings having a marvellous crispness to them.

It was getting to the stage where I was beginning to feel quite full. However, there was one more item that I wanted to try out. The soft shell crab tempura is crab meat in a light batter. At times, it was a bit of a struggle separating a portion that could fit in my mouth but the taste meant that it was well worth it.

It was telling that although I started eating quite late on, I was one of the first to leave. It was nothing to do with the quality of the food, which was excellent given the price. The groups of people filling the restaurant were simply having too much of a good time to ask for the bill.

MUSHU
53 Warren Street
Fitzrovia
W1T 5NL

Tel: 020 7388 3629