Sherry at Bar Pepito

Sherry seems to be one of those drinks that you only think about turning to after a certain age, or after everything else in a drinks cabinet has been dispensed with. Even the simple act of saying the word ‘sherry’ out loud has the effect of reinforcing its aristocratic connotations.

But in truth, sherry isn’t just for those awkward Sunday afternoons with your nan or for passing the time with Frasier Crane. As we Britons slowly develop a more sophisticated relationship with alcohol, drinks like sherry are a good way of integrating alcoholic consumption as part of daily life.

This is not to say that it is something to serve up with your cornflakes, but its versatility and the fact it comes in small measures makes it something to enjoy throughout the afternoon and into the evening. This relaxed approach to sherry is captured in Bar Pepito, London’s first sherry bar. It seems quite a brave choice to establish such a venue in the heart of King’s Cross, but the owners have not stretched themselves in terms of space as the bar itself is quite small.

Modelled on an Andalusian ‘bodega’, it can comfortably house 20 customers in a contained but lavishly decorated single room. All the walls are adorned with Spanish paraphernalia while the venue’s produce is displayed in well-lit cabinets.

The choice of sherries is excellent, ranging from dry finos to heavy-hitting palo cortados to treacly pudding wines. A glass of most of the sherries will cost you about £5 to £6. This might seem expensive for only a 75ml serving but given that this will last you longer than most glasses of wine, it’s quite sensibly priced. If you’re planning to stay for a long time, bottles start from £12, with the Apostoles being a firm recommendation with its nuanced and well-balanced flavour.

Given that this is a bar with Spanish influences, it would be remiss if there were not anything to go with the sherries in the form of tapas. The dishes, served in generous portions, are exactly what you would expect: a mixture of olives and cured meats.

What Bar Pepito offers is unique but it is also clear that a great deal of thought has gone into making it more than a curio or an ephemeral fancy. While sherry will never have the cache enjoyed by other drinks, Bar Pepito allows you to savour it in exactly the sort of atmosphere it deserves to be enjoyed.

Bar Pepito
3 Varnishers Yard,
The Regent Quarter
King’s Cross
N1 9DF

Tel: 07976 704 584
Opening hours: Wednesday – Saturday 1700-0000