Cantina del Ponte’s Meat Masterclass

When going out for food in London, trying out the cuisines of different countries, a certain amount of complacency can settle in the midst of this experimentation. Whether going for an Indian, out for some tapas or getting Chinese take-out, the thought process of ‘I know what I like’ takes over. The menu arrives, the familiar choice pops up and the order is given with no consideration of branching out and picking something new.

Yet the irony is that the labels of Chinese, Spanish, French, or whatever foreign food you fancy, are misleading. Do a little research into a country’s cuisine and you’ll find that there is really no such thing as Spanish or Brazilian. What is served up in London’s restaurants is a gathering up of a country’s collected produce with some concessions to the English palate – Chicken Tikka Masala being the obvious case in point.

But there rewards to be had in delving a little deeper into a country’s range of produce and expanding your horizons. Having a friendly guide helps and one place to find a pool of knowledge and sophistication is Cantina del Ponte, situated just opposite the Thames. Their Charcuterie Masterclass divides Italy up into different regions and allows the often-neglected local meat specialities to be savoured.

Our group started with the north of Italy, with produce coming from Alpine regions along with farms close to the French border. The meat coming from the latter was bresaola, air-dried beef. It had a sturdy texture yet allowing a variety of flavours to be enjoyed. Accompanying this were prosciutto (yes, the one you get on posh pizzas) and lardo. The latter is not that far removed from what you think it might be. Virtually all white due to the proportion of fat to meat.

It is something of a delicacy and a highly acquired taste. To get the best out of it, it is best to leave it in your mouth for a few seconds to soften it up. After this period of time, the flavours open up and beyond the heavy saltiness, you get spices like rosemary and cloves coming through.

Moving down to the centre of Italy, there was the chance to enjoy further specialities. Beyond Parma ham, meats such as wild boar salami and mortadella were more robust than the ones from up north. The wild boar salami uses a recipe that is over three hundred years old and has a very gamey flavour that you would not expect with this type of meat.

The final stop to the south saw meats with much more kick and spice. Starting off with the spicy salami, this delivered a reasonable amount of spice although not distracting from the flavours. The ante was certainly upped by the Calabrian salami called ‘Nduja. Essentially smoked pig fat with chilli pepper, this is something so potent as to only be eaten on toast and a small amount at that.

While not all of the meats were something I would choose again, the chance to find out more about their manufacture and the care and consideration that goes into making them made for an entertaining evening. Try them for yourself, but be warned that the ‘Nduja is seriously hot.

Cantina del Ponte
Butler’s Wharf Chop House
36e Shad Thames
London Bridge
SE1 2YE

Tel: 020 7403 5403