Inn the Park, St James’ Park

Given the arrival of summer with ever-extending hours of daylight, it seems exactly the right time of year to take one’s food outside. However, even though many London restaurants offer al fresco dining, the city poses a problem in terms of the suitability of actually doing so. Given that so many eateries are based on busy streets, the practicality of having your food outside is compromised by the heavy weight of traffic. Sure, you may want to have your meal under the stars but do you want to have it next to a chugging 4×4?

Fortunately, your surroundings are not something you need to worry about when visiting Inn the Park. It’s situated in St James’ Park, close to the lake and set in a building that has the look of a mountain lodge.

To start with, my companion and I went for the asparagus and salt beef respectively. Both gave a fulsome start to the meal as their consummate delicacy and the heightened flavour.

There was a little mix-up when it came to the mains. I ordered the haddock and salmon fish cakes but was brought a small poussin. Fortunately the error was quickly rectified but I couldn’t help feel very guilty over inadvertently bringing about the death of a small bird. That said, the fish cakes were very enjoyable, the combination of the haddock and salmon being a good balance of flavours. My companion reported that her skate was a little drab although for the most part, our thoughts with the family and friends of that poor wasted bird.

This was all washed down with a delightful bottle of Viognier, which was delicate enough to be accommodating for both our dishes.

There was a very English feel to our desserts. My companion went for English rose ice cream whilst I plumped for an Eton Mess. My companion was very taken with her ice cream which was nuanced whilst allowing the richness of the flavour to come through. My Eton Mess was a jamboree of blueberries, cream and meringue. Whilst not breaking any new ground, it was a very decorous way to end the meal.

Overall, Inn the Park is a quaint place to spend an evening with low prices and a charming environment. My companion remarked that while the venue aims towards the Spartan aesthetic of well worn picnic baskets on the heath, the presence of Whitehall and Westminster recalls more John Lewis than long jaunts among bluebells and pussywillow. But then again, she’s always been a lot classier than I.

Inn the Park,
St James’ Park,
SW1A 2BJ

Tel: 020 7451 9999