Byron Burgers in Islington

It is something of a mystery to see the word ‘Byron’ emblazoned on the top of an Islington burger joint. After all, Byronic is a term used to describe those ne’er-do-wells who are mad, bad and dangerous to know. Those people who fit this description are more inclined to be seducing their cousins and scribbling poetry onto parchment, not settling down to a cheeseburger and asking what’s in the Byron sauce.

However, ‘tis but a name. There is also the point that if the owners had kept any tendencies relating to the Romantic poet, they would soon be run out of town by the Food Hygiene Standards Commission. The interior of the place is also quite removed from any notions of poetry, with something of an industrial aspect to the restaurant’s design. Walls that are left purposely bare and exposed pipes give a stripped-down feel.

My companion and I started with an Oreo and chocolate milkshake respectively. Unlike a lot of places that serve up these drinks, our milkshakes arrived ready to drink. Often you can find yourself pulling a Zoolander-style pout due to having to suck up a liquid that has the viscosity of freshly laid tarmac. But not this time. My companion also commented that her Oreo milkshake was one of the best she had ever had.

Onto the burgers. I plumped for the Byron burger while my companion had the chicken fillet. The Byron burger contained dry cured bacon, mature Cheddar and Byron sauce. On asking what was in Byron sauce, the waiter was initially reluctant to say before revealing that it was a sort of Thousand Island dressing. This made a bit of an anaemic compliment to what was an otherwise very satisfactory burger, a juicy piece of meat that combined well with the cheese and bacon.

The side dish of onion rings was also a hit. Rather than deep-fried in breadcrumbs, these rings came with a spicy batter, providing a good twist on an old favourite. My companion was equally complimentary about her chicken fillet, giving a weary thumbs-up as she pushed the last piece into her mouth.

The wine selection at Byron is reasonable but the way in which the wine list is set out does cause of bit of discomfort. The wines are listed under four categories: GOOD, BETTER, GREAT, BEST. I found this a little smarmy as a diner is entitled to choose whatever wine they want, rather than be nudged into picking something that is ‘BETTER’.

My ire was soothed by the arrival of the dessert, a Knickerbocker Glory with cherries, ice-cream and chocolate sauce. So enticing was the dish that my companion suddenly found room for a large part of what I had intended to be mine. She sat back satisfied, mostly likely at denying me but also due to the good quality of the dessert.

The bill came to about about £40 for two, which is reasonable for a meal that will have you waddling out of the door with a big smile on your face.

Byron Burgers
341 Upper Street
Islington
N1 0PB

Tel: 020 7704 7620