Moolis: Indian Fast Food

Even though Indian food is now as mainstream in England as road works and complacency, it’s not really considered food to eat on-the-go.

It’s hard to imagine a stand or a chain of vendors selling punnets of curry with an accompanying paratha. The number of hands you would need to sprout in order to keep everything close to hand would be mind-boggling. However, change is on its way with a new venue springing up in Soho that combines Indian cuisine with quick delivery of produce.

But although the idea is innovative and modern, this is not to say that the traditions and nuances of Indian cooking have been traduced in order to make a quick buck. This is not the place to come if you are looking for a McFlurry curry or bargain bhuna bucket. The main staple to be found here is the item that gives the venue its name. The mooli is best thought of as a wrap. There are five different fillings to put into the roti along with chutneys, salads or salsas, depending on which particular mooli you plump for.

There are three meat-based moolis; chicken, pork and beef as well as two vegetarian options, asparagus and paneer. With all of the moolis, they are deceptively light with the imaginative combinations of ingredients providing a substantial portion that does not leave you feeling bloated.

My own personal favourite is the beef which is put together with coconut, salsa and raita. The coconut is not overwhelming and lightens the texture of the beef. Also worthy of commendation is the asparagus mooli, which has crunchy asparagus spears along with cumin potatoes and creamy yoghurt. One slight point to pick up on was the paucity of meat in the chicken mooli but it was still very flavoursome and combined well with the apple and mint chutney.

But the Indian influence is not limited to the food. The mango lassi was really very good; creamy, light and packing lots of fruit. Other recommendations would be the various mojitos on offer, available with orange, guava and lychee. Again, what appears to be a leftfield choice actually proves to be quite inspired as the fruitiness of the drinks compliments the savoury flavours of the moolis.

As for the venue itself, it matches the intelligence and the innovation behind the project itself. Although you can get the items to take away, it says a lot that the venue is packed with people wanting to stay and linger over well-prepared and well-thought food.

Moolis
50 Frith Street
Soho
W1D 4SQ

Sunday-Tuesday: 12-10.30pm
Wednesday-Saturday: 12-11:30pm