Betjeman Arms St Pancras Station

You have to admit, there ain’t a right lot around the King’s Cross/St Pancras area. So we can all be immensely thankful that the new St Pancras International (alright, it’s not that new, but still) is packed with shops, cafés, restaurants, bars; you name it, St Pancras has it.

There is one restaurant that is slightly more hidden. Tucked away in the corner of the upper level, where the Eurostar leaves, is the Betjeman Arms, named after the Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman, who was instrumental in preserving original features of St Pancras. And it is a very, very pleasant surprise.

I’m rarely a fan of train station restaurants, even the high end ones; they tend to be overpriced and somewhat… smug. As in, ‘You need us.  There’s nowhere else for you to go, what with your train leaving in 40 minutes, so you’ll get whatever you’re given’. That sort of feeling. Well, I can tell you, the Betjeman Arms is nothing like this. It’s spread out over several rooms: the bar room, the more casual pantry and the dining room, as well as the outdoor section with its heaters. The dining room is the best, and also where we ate. It’s beautifully decorated; half old-school and kitschy with train luggage racks and boxes and so forth, and half classy/modern décor.

The food is really very impressive. They have starters, mains and a good wine list for those interested in eating a proper meal, and really good sandwiches and lighter things for those wanting to just grab something. The smoked haddock Welsh rarebit starter is a great mix of creamy and tangy; and the roast pork main course is beautifully presented and served with potatoes and beetroot.

The dessert…0h, the dessert. Somehow, when the rest of the meal has been so good, you know you must force yourself through a pudding, which will unquestionably be just as yummy. And the white chocolate cheesecake mousse, served in a large wine glass, does not disappoint. I peek very nosily at what everyone else in the room is eating, too, and I experience a lot of food envy.

The Betjeman Arms has a nice individual touch: its own ale, made at the Sharp’s Brewery in Cornwall, where apparently John Betjeman was inspired by all the natural beauty to get it all down on paper. The ale is, appropriately, named Betjeman Ale, and is very drinkable stuff (if you like ale). Creamy, light, and just a nice touch.

But for me it is the ambience in the place which is so nice: relaxed, homey, friendly, welcoming; kind of like your own living room, but with complete strangers in it; strangers to whom, it seems, you have no aversion and only goodwill.  One could curl up on the sofa for a nap and the staff probably wouldn’t mind. I ask, actually, and I am told that if I do, I won’t be the first.

So is it worth the price? I have to say, it is really good value. Starters and desserts are around £6, mains between £8 and £15. So about the average price for a pretty nice restaurant in central London. But the reason it’s good value is the fact that, as a train station restaurant, you’re already expecting to get ripped off.  But what you get is great food, atmosphere and service at a normal price.  That’s surely worth a visit.

The Betjeman Arms
Unit 53, St Pancras International Station
Pancras Road
King’s Cross
NW1 2QP

Tel: 020 7923 5440