The Crown and Sceptre, Fitzrovia

The Crown and Sceptre in Fitzrovia recently had an extensive makeover, so I went along with a friend to scope it out and try their revamped food menu. They’ve also updated their selection of beers to include a new wider range of draught beers and cask ales, for the enthusiasts among you.

The décor is upmarket – a comfy gastropub, but with a bizarre painting above the hearth of two smartly-dressed women sitting on armchairs with shotguns. Towards the back there’s also a more snug, dimly-lit area where you can reserve a table. It was damn popular on a Thursday night (so definitely book if you want a sit-down meal) with post-work crowds sitting in the leather-back chairs and standing in every available nook and cranny.

I was on the wine that evening (as on most evenings). The sauvignon blanc was an enjoyable one, especially cool on a sunny day. The menu is your standard posh pub fare, with a selection of interesting starters and sharers (such as the beef brisket and beetroot hash with a fried egg). I went for the potted duck and game first, which was spiced with orange and came with toast to be eaten like pâté. It was very morish, more so than you might expect. My guest had the soup of the day, tomato and mascarpone, which she really enjoyed.

As well as the traditional staples such as burgers, sausage and mash and steak, there were also some really appealing veggie options: gnocchi with wild mushroom, squash, spinach and cannelloni beans and a mushroom and fresh chestnut risotto. Alas, I chose the cornfed chicken with roasted garlic, sautéed potatoes and red pepper coulis. The potatoes and the coulis were delicious, but the chicken was unfortunately a bit dry, and the garlic wasn’t very well-roasted. I slightly wished I had gone for the risotto. However, the cheeseburger with bacon and fries that my guest had was generously-sized, and better than average.

I had an incredible dessert: salted caramel and chocolate tart with clotted cream. My arteries caved in just from looking at it, but it was gorgeously rich and the actual salt on the top was a nice touch. Despite being happily full I could have probably eaten it again.

All in all, The Crown and Sceptre is a great pub, with some classy food choices. However, although as to be expected with increased classiness, the food is a little pricey by general pub standards. As it’s so popular, it’s probably a good idea to reserve a table.

The Crown and Sceptre
86 Great Titchfield Street
Fitzrovia
W1W 6SD

Tel: 020 7307 9971