Ibérica La Terraza, Canary Wharf

After a glorious run of sunshine, it blustered the night we tested the terrace at Ibérica. The Spanish tapas restaurant at Canary Wharf has had its lovely outdoor terraza since April, commandeering a leafy corner of Cabot Square complete with gushing fountains and white gravel. But tonight, the blankets were out and draped on shivering shoulders. No matter, as I’m sure it rains in Spain sometimes too.

The food served on the terrace is snackier than the deeper stews and paellas dished up in the restaurant indoors. You wouldn’t come onto the terrace for a meal but you could fill up on a gaggle of tapas. The pinchos, small tapas on bread, are just a few pounds each with bocadillos – like baguettes – around £8. All are influenced by northern Spanish cuisine from where both Ibérica’s head chefs originate.

‘We wanted something for people when they finish work,’ says the impish and personable group Head Chef César García, gesturing to the besuited corporates seated nearby. Most customers had just finished work, smart City types relaxing into conspiratorial office gossip or romantic assignations.

We started with a spread of ‘half & half’ cured meats and cheeses. The chorizo de pueblo was flavoursome without being too salty, the rosemary-crust sheep cheese was singsong and the Urgell was a superb raunchy, deep-throated sour cheese.

Our favourite tapas were the Padron peppers, green turrets of cream cheese with lemon and a wedge of Parmesan. I was also impressed by the aubergine, honey and pinenut dish which was mushy sweet, almost like a dessert.

The fried squid bocadillo was essentially almost whole squid in a tasty batter with tentacles curling out of a baguette – the squid was delicious and soft, especially when combined with aioli but I didn’t need all that bread. My companion was also horrified at the legs, one of which disengaged and remained on the table until the end. There was also Indurain – Piparra pepper, anchovies, olives and white tuna which, while looking impressive, was perhaps not so different to what I could make with a few cocktail sticks and preserved foods. Cantabrian sea anchovies with tomato and bread were very delicate and beautifully presented, and good quality fish etc. but £9 is more than I’d expect to pay for slivers of fish from a can, no matter how good they are.

Dessert-wise, the Crema Catalana was a surprise – a ‘modern twist’ said César later, on the original more solid version. This was a cloud of whipped lemon foam cream which, despite its scary calorific content, I found I’d downed while warily observing the squid leg.

One downside – especially if you’re a non-smoker – is that these Canary Wharf banking types really pound the fags – there were many flushed sweatheads just off the squash courts in shorts following the 1980s maxim of working and playing hard, the latter involving blowing hurricanes of cigarette smoke into other diners’ faces. But bar this, and the rain, dining on Ibérica’s terraza was a very pleasant experience with some good tapas.

Ibérica
12 Cabot Square
Canary Wharf
E14 4QQ

Tel: 0207 6368 650