The Factory House, The City

On the rare occasion I find myself amidst banker’s territory in The City, I simply accept the fact that every corner will have the obligatory stuffy wine bar, fit to bursting with balding business men. Yet tucked away in the nooks and crannies of the cobbled old streets that surround the towering skyscrapers of the East End and next to the historic Leadenhall Market lies The Factory House.

Opened in September, this new enterprise sees us travel back in time to industrial London; a nod to Danny Boyle’s iconic Olympic Opening Ceremony, when the city was steeped in commerce, trade and eccentric experimentation. With an unassuming front entrance, the subterranean restaurant is tucked away from sight, making it all the more mysterious. On arrival, a charming attendant greets us with a docking ticket.

As we are led down a spiral staircase, I notice enchanting books, paintings and titbits line the walls and shelves. Visually the restaurant is fascinating; providing a feast for the senses before we’ve even taken our coats off. Exotic scents drift over from the copper-faced bar, jazz music oozes out of hidden speakers and an eclectic array of furniture forms the path to our table for the evening. Nestled into a comfortable booth we are now faced with the dilemma of what to order. So whilst we ponder the menu, we snack on orange and oregano olives, homemade honey bread and moreish ‘beer sticks’ (think salami in a thin stick). Salty, chewy and oh so addictive.

With a comprehensive and thoughtfully selected wine list and intriguingly named cocktails, we settle for the smoky sweet Cinnamon Cigar which is presented in a vintage cigar box. Only in London!

Time flies waiting for our courses, as we are so enraptured spotting the archaic looking inventions, lamps, typography and retro train clocks that adorn the basement. As we progress through our beautifully presented starters of seared scallops with orange and honey braised fennel and a dressed crab salad (both melt-in-your-mouth) we test our history knowledge whilst playing ‘guess the Victorian contraption’.

General manager Andrew Rhodes and his enthusiastic team are clearly passionate about the innovative, seasonal menu, crafted by executive chef Sean Davies. The carnivore in me simply couldn’t pass up the opportunity to order fillet steak; especially when I spotted that royal appointed butcher Donald Russel was responsible for the meat selection, and then I noticed through the open view theatre kitchen that it would be charred to perfection on a Josper Grill. It did not disappoint. Crisp and ebony on the surface and plump and pink inside, each bite induced an involuntary ‘mmm’. Accompanied with crisp thin fries and a peashoot salad, I’m going to be brave here and say it might just be the best steak I’ve had in London to date. Bovine glory of the highest praise indeed.

Dessert was an intensely rich dark chocolate and hazelnut truffle cake and my guest (who had also shared in my steak joy of the main course) went for a sticky toffee pudding with a spoonful of sinful clotted cream. Both were equally pleasing and saw the end to a wonderful meal.

All too often in The City, the wine bars are packed to the rafters so that you can barely find a stool to perch on or hear yourself above the rattle, but we hardly noticed how time went by as we relaxed in what felt like a secret hub of hidden London. The restaurant and bar remained consistently busy throughout the night, providing that perfect rumble of background noise that both soothes and reminds you that others are enjoying themselves too. I loved the concept of the working factory including the whimsical attention to detail throughout and the execution of the food, service and atmosphere was unpretentious but reassuringly attentive.

What more could you want?

The only downfall I can see is that due to its City location, the restaurant is only open Monday to Friday, so that means no perfect steak for me on the weekend. Instead I will have to join the business folk in suits and clock back in after work. Oh it’s a tough life.

For all readers of The London Word – receive an exclusive offer of 25% off your bill if you book a table for drinks or dinner, Monday-Friday during January 2013. Simply book online or by phone and quote ‘THE LONDON WORD’ .

The Factory House
10 Lime Street
City of London
EC3M 7AA

(entrance on Leadenhall Passage opposite Lloyds Building.)

Tel: 020 7929 4590

Opening hours : Monday-Friday 7.30am-11pm