The Builders Arms, Chelsea

On a quiet residential street, tucked away just minutes behind the bustling hub of King’s Road, lies a rather peculiar find. Rarely do I find a pub where not only is the food on offer well above pub standards (think Michelin-starred chef and you’re getting warmer), but an impressive wine list stands defiant alongside. I am snuggled into the warming nook of a Geronimo Inn, namely The Builders Arms. The fire roars gently in the corner, candles give every punter a handsome glow and with a mix of witty signs, modern art and antique treasures adorning the walls, I am content to sit and watch the world go by.

That is until I see a waiter pass by with plates of what looks like fine dining at The Ivy. Now, covered in a mist of envious hunger, I watch as the couple on the table next to us chow down on their starters. Closer inspection of the menu and a little Cluedo detection tells me that the bloke must be eating the smoothest looking chicken liver parfait and his date is slurping her way through Cornish crab soup. Oh boy, oh boy, this is gonna be good.

My rumbling stomach is temporarily distracted by Geronimo’s appointed Master of Wine and co-founder of Richmond-based wine merchants Ellis of Richmond, James Ellis. As the man who helps decide the content of their infamously good wine list, it’s obvious James knows his wines and, more importantly to a devoted eater such as myself, what to match them with.

The first course is stuffed quail with Roaring Meg Pinot Gris 2011, Central Otago, NZ, then a comforting brandade of salt cod and potato, offered with Gavi di Gavi ‘Ca do Bosio’ single Vineyard 2011, Piedmont, Italy. Main course is a saddle of roast mutton with two red wines to tantalise the taste buds: Tinto Roble Tempranillo, Bodega Vina Vilano 2011, Spain, and my favourite of the evening Sangiovese Cabernet, Ripa delle Mandorle, 2011 Tuscany, Italy.

Happily merry by this point, I thought the evening had got as good as promised, and then dessert appeared. A puffed up Eccles cake and a chunky wedge of Shorrocks Lancashire Bomb Cheddar. Mince pie with cheese I hear you cry, are you mad?! Trust me. Paired with Muscat Beaumes de Vines, Vidal Fluery, France, a fruity dessert wine, even I was rendered silent. A truly scrumptious trio.

The inn has everything that ticks the boxes of a good pub. Chilled atmosphere, exceptionally good food, cracking wine list, lovely staff and with no sign of chips served in galvanised buckets. With three pubs in Heathrow, another in Surrey and a hefty 30 within the M25, they must be doing something right. Each inn has different specialities, The Builders Arms for example has a wine club every Wednesday evening and from what I’ve heard on the Chelsea grapevine, plays hosts to a few royal regulars who pop by for their Sunday roast fix. So the next time I’m wandering down the King’s Road pining for the bag I can’t afford, I’ll know where to drop by for a little taste of luxury.

The Builders Arms
13 Britten Street
Chelsea
SW3 3TY

Tel: 020 7349 9040