Jena.Theo at London Fashion Week

Precise, mathematical, clean cut.  Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis’ (Jena.Theo) glorious offering ‘Heavy Metal’ was a cross between origami and roman drapes (in an entirely positive way).

The base to the collection lay from the waist down in the form of a a skinny jean in light grey, black and bleached blue and a block peep toe wedge, both of which were used consistently throughout. The main event was most definitely the torso area which was draped, hung and adorned with midi length swathes and clean sweeps of sheer fabric. Aysmmetry was the word of the show with long backs and short fronts, diagonal splits cutting tunics in half and knots and gathers shaping the fabric into intricate wings and formations; much harsher than the gradual dip hem skirts we’re wearing right now.

The coats were simple and quite primal; a chunky suede and shearling cape lying in folds around the shoulders, a sheepskin blanket jacket and a couple of thick felt cocooned blazer concoctions. Stand out pieces were the sheer shirts buttoned up to the top in neutral grey with elegant draping at the back and the simple long black tunics which I’m now yearning to wear over tights with an oversized knit thrown on top.

Proportions-wise, one ensemble that really stood out from the others was a fitted shift dress (emphasis on the ‘fitted’ as this was really the only piece that couldn’t also double as an emergency shelter). It was a patchwork affair decorated with metallic panels above the empire line which was neat and a little space-age.

Despite the casual illusion created by the collection it was obvious that this was bespoke tailoring at its finest. There wasn’t a swathe of fabric out of place. Holmes’ expertise in beautifully cutting the most voluminous and challenging of patterns and Dimitri’s skills in precise tailoring have seamlessly combined to create a collection that rests easily in that tricky space between luxury and street style.

But let us touch briefly on the patterns; for the third season Jena. Theo have collaborated with artist O.Two to produce beautiful print designs which resided on the surface of long silk tunics, encircling the body in flowing, abstract landscapes.

Walking in staggered lines and then coming together against a back drop of harsh strip lighting and a haunting soundtrack, the models’  polished pony tails and clean make up with just a simple kohl lined eye and flawless skin worked well against the delicate silhouette of the clothes.

All in all, incredibly clean cut and artlessly stunning. I have a feeling that Jena. Theo’s simplest collection yet may also be their most successful.

Photos by Paul McGhie