Annie Moss Talks Vintage Fashion

Annie Moss has been selling vintage clothes and textiles in Islington’s Camden Passage for 30 years, and it’s easy to see why she has been so successful. Walking into her shop feels like entering the dressing room of an incredibly well-dressed 1920s starlet. There are rails of slinky silk dresses, soft fur coats and glamorous beaded flapper dresses.

Stoles, lacy collars and bowler hats hang from the ceiling; chosen dresses are displayed on the walls, and every surface is covered in shoes and accessories. There are even baby clothes, some menswear and uncomfortable looking vintage underwear. In the window display, the starlet has left a magnum of champagne on the floor in front of a huge antique mirror, alongside her shoes, dress and sequined cape.

Moss is like a stern wardrobe mistress, dressed in pale blue skinny jeans, a breton stripe top and a long white antique beaded necklace. She is too cool to gush about the clothes although she admits her job is ‘good fun’. While I am in the shop, sitting between a display of costume jewellery and a fuschia pink 1930s evening dress, a group of young girls come in. They seem not to know where to start, flitting between racks, lovingly stroking all the different fabrics.

Moss looks on, allowing them to touch the clothes. A lot of people come to her shop for inspiration. Kate Moss (no relation of Annie’s) is a loyal customer, and Annie tells me that the late Alexander McQueen was always popping in to get new ideas with his colleague Sarah Burton, who designed Kate Moss’s wedding dress.

I tried to find out the secret of her success, her favourite styles and what she thinks of frequent visitor Lily Allen’s foray into the vintage clothes trade.

What is so special about vintage clothes?

‘Each piece is unique. Not everyone wants to look like they’ve stepped off the set of a costume drama so it’s good to mix it up, giving vintage pieces new life by teaming them with modern clothes.  People are also aware of the ethical aspect. It’s recycling. And it’s nice to have something you really love rather than thousands of throwaway cheap Primark t-shirts.’

Have you seen the vintage clothes trade change over the years?

‘Islington’s Camden Passage used to be lined with shops that sold antiques and vintage clothing but the past few years have seen rent go up so much that chain shops are the only ones who can afford to remain in business. It’s a great shame that so many wonderful shops have gone out of business. A similar thing has happened in Portobello. But somehow vintage clothing shops are surviving.’

What impact has the recession had on shopping habits?

‘Vintage is really fashionable at the moment and I’ve been doing well. The biggest change in the last two years has been more people buying fur. I don’t think it’s just because the last two winters have been so bitterly cold. I’m not afraid to say that vintage fur is more ethical than faux fur because it’s biodegradable. Faux fur is not sustainable because it takes hundreds of years to decompose in landfill sites.’

Have period shows like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire affected sales?

‘Mad Men has been a big influence. We’ve had a lot of people coming in looking for 1950s and 1960s clothes. Now, with Boardwalk Empire, the flapper dress has become this year’s party dress. Boardwalk Empire has encouraged women to try men’s clothes as well. In the last six months women have been buying 1920s style bowler hats and men’s suits.’

What’s your favourite fashion era?

‘I’m fond of the 1920s and 1930s because designers seemed to be having a lot of fun with clothes.’

Who’s your typical customer?

‘Women in their mid-to-late twenties and Japanese fashion students.’

It must be nice being surrounded by so many lovely clothes everyday, what do you like about your job and what tips would you give to anyone wanting to start up a similar business?

‘It is a good way to see the world. I buy a lot of pieces from France and a lot of fur from Budapest. But I love working in London, there’s so much going on and Londoners are a lot more fashion conscious than people in the rest of the country. I can’t tell you my business secrets but I’d tell anyone why wants to go into vintage clothes to just enjoy it because it is great fun. Lily Allen used to come in here all the time when she lived round the corner and now she’s trying to have fun with her vintage clothes business.’

What’s your favourite London spot?

‘I like to run along Regent’s Canal, past the barges, but I also like to get away from London and see the countryside.’

Who, living or dead, would you like to invite to dinner?

‘It’s difficult to decide whether to go for sex appeal or literary appeal. I think someone with a fierce sense of humour so I would like to have dinner with Oscar Wilde. He was very witty and would be good company. He was well dressed too.’

Best night out in London?

‘Seeing a play at the Almeida theatre and followed by a really nice meal at the Almeida restaurant.’

After so long running the shop, what are your plans for the future?

‘I shall keep going, I’ll be around for a while.’

Annie’s Vintage Costume and Textiles
12 Camden Passage
Islington
N1 8ED