Sebago at Soho House

On what may have been the most beautiful day I’ve seen since moving to London, there I was – standing on the open roof terrace at Soho House and basking in the summer sun, sipping on fresh OJ and marvelling at Sebago’s latest footwear collection… It was extremely painful, as you can imagine!

I’ve mentioned here before just how much time I’ve got for Sebago – the global heritage brand is, after all, the inventor of the Dockside, a horrendously popular boat shoe that’s been having something of a renaissance over the past few years. It’s a shoe that wouldn’t look out of place in the wardrobes of downtown prep lads and uptown yuppie suits, and it’s no mean feat to be reaching out to so many different styles and subcultures with just one fashion item.

But that’s the beauty of Sebago; it really is a master in understated yet effective footwear and its latest line – the Artisan Collection for the upcoming autumn/winter season – is the next step in the label’s long history.

I chatted about the collection’s inspiration with a few execs at the event – they all told me that Sebago have been reaching out to new talent for collaborative design partnerships. The most successful collabs have made it into the new Artisan Collection and it looks to be reaching out to a younger audience while still maintaining that authentic nature of previous Sebago lines.

On the books are design collective VANE (‘the vanguards of New York downtown style’), leatherwork legends Billykirk and radical style activist Ronnie Fieg.

It was pretty obvious from what was on show just where the collaborations were present. VANE’s forward-thinking fashion sense was obvious on some reimagined smoky-grey Docksides, some high-top khaki brown boots and a very special two-textured black double boot that turns down at the sides to reveal a second, inner shoe. It really shouldn’t have looked good… but it did!

VANE’s flashy and inventive ways really dominated and took most of the limelight from Billykirk, whose leatherwork knowhow was very clear on two particular pieces: a pair of rehashed Fairhaven Oxfords and some CAT-like black boots. Both pieces were very much in line with what Sebago has always been about, and it’s clear that the brand is keen to keep its history alive.

Billykirk’s work though was still very impressive – what it lacked in colour and innovation, it certainly made up for in durability and detail.

Despite all the positives, Ronnie Fieg really just wasn’t for me. Although he’s undoubtedly a collaboration king (Ronnie has worked with Adidas, Saucony and Red Wing among others), there were just far too many frills and way too much fringe going on – sure, it’s a matter of personal taste, but it seemed to be looking a bit Brokeback Mountain with all the cowboy tassels.

The Artisan Collection as a whole looks to be something really fresh and fun for Sebago, who can sometimes come across as a little bit beige and straight-edged. But on Soho House’s roof terrace and with blazing weather like that, I’ll happily see them launch it 100 times!

For more information about Sebago and where to find them, visit here. The Sebago Artisan Collection launch took place on 25 June at:

Soho House
40 Greek Street
Soho
W1D 4EB