16
Sep
2009

Fashion Week’s Big Birthday

For the past quarter of a century London Fashion Week has been the birth place, and at times crematorium, of many a new trend.

Those that were born successfully walked straight down the catwalk and onto the backs of the audience while retailers across the globe made copies so that everyone, whether shopping in Peacocks or Prada, could have a piece of the action.

Others, however, didn’t meet such kindly receptions, the end of the runway signifying the end of their fashion life. For them it was less catwalk, more fashion plank. And then of course there are those trends that you (and by you I mean I…) wish would die but simply refuse to. Wet look leggings being one. ‘Boho’ being another. It is Matthew Williamson who we have the dubious pleasure of thanking for unleashing the aforementioned trend onto the world. But we can’t lay all the blame on him. The general public are more than a little bit guilty. And I sincerely doubt it was Mr Williamson who coined that dreaded term only comparable to the word ‘funky’ in its hideousness.

But some trends don’t seem to have any particular parentage. Whilst researching this piece I came across an article written in 1998 in the Independent about the happy death of the legging: ‘May they rest in peace forever’ The writer couldn’t hold any particular designer responsible for their creation but she did sincerely wish the item would never return. Oh, how she must be laughing now. An incredibly bitter, sarcastic laugh.

 If anyone does have good reason to laugh then it is surely Dame Vivienne Westwood who, despite being in the industry for nigh on 50 years, still has the ability to draw the biggest and best audiences to her shows. Westwood can take the credit for giving us many defining fashion moments, (discounting punk as more a movement than a moment), one in particular being the Pirate Collection of 1981. This collection mixed historical pieces with cutting edge style resulting in a new and exciting aesthetic which saw a turning point in British fashion.

And today? Well, you may have noticed we are currently in the firm grip of a big shoulder revolution, courtesy of Balmain – a French label whose fortunes have turned stellar after they sent drummer boy jackets and ripped jeans down the catwalk a few seasons ago.

I’m certain that there must be many articles floating around that rejoice in the demise of the shoulder pad when it died the first time round. It just remains to be seen if we will feel the same good riddance attitude in another 15 years. Or perhaps we’ll still be wearing them. With leggings. God, I hope not.

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