Brown’s Bar and Brasserie

An Englishman, a Frenchman and an American walk into a bar. They like the place. They pool their money and buy it. They open it up together on their terms. The Frenchman (sullen, unpredictable, genial) heads for the kitchen. The Englishman (courtly, urbane, affable) designs the décor. The American (quick-witted, smooth-tongued, amorous) takes charge of the bar. Together they make a lot of money.

It is most unlikely that any discernible part of this opening paragraph is true in anyway, shape or form. Alas, it is but a parable, but like all good parables it paints an appreciable picture of, in this case, an interesting restaurant.

The success of Brown’s Brasserie, revamped, restored and reinvigorated here on Covent Garden’s St Martin’s Lane, is based upon its successful marriage of these three national styles, cultures and traditions. It has, by accident or design, avoided the tired, contrived themes that can undermine such chain establishments and procured itself an atmosphere that is both original and alluring.

Converted from and contained within the old Westminster County Courthouse, the 320-seat restaurant radiates a sense of history. The spacious 1930s art deco interior summons a distinct colonial-era English tearoom ambience that shall appeal to both Londoners and tourists.

Yet the bar is New York born and bred. The drinks menu is extensive and the cocktails are imaginative and affordable (‘The Kajuma’, at £5.85, is highly recommended – a personal recipe of manager Aubrey). Equally, both house wines (the true test of any wine list) are thoroughly quaffable at £3.40 for a small glass.

The food is pleasant and well-presented. Despite it being very much an international French brasserie menu there is, one feels, a ‘homely’ heart to it. To start the Cornish sardines with beef tomato, caper berries and olive tapenade are exquisitely smoky and pungent, whilst the grilled Somerset goat’s cheese with fig and hazelnut salad is perfectly adequate.

Main courses of prawn and chorizo linguine (generously portioned and suitably saucy) and slow braised pork with black pudding and mash (tender, set off by a wonderful sage gravy) are thoroughly agreeable and, at £11 and £12.50 respectively, certainly in keeping with Soho prices. A Brown’s house side salad is fresh and well dressed with yoghurt and mustard.

Other dishes (bacon cheese burgers, steak and Guinness pies, pork cutlets, Sunday roasts) are hearty and customary, but the fish menu is particularly interesting and offers a persuasive seafood platter at £10.50.

Nestled halfway down a dessert list that contains more traditional cheesecakes, sticky toffee puddings and apple pies, the elderflower jelly with fruit compote is an unexpected triumph. Exquisitely presented with accompanying raspberries and blueberries, it provides a fitting finale.

Suitable as an accompaniment to a theatre date (see the pre and post theatre menu) or as an evening’s destination in itself, Brown’s Brasserie has developed an appealing character. Better food may be available elsewhere, but certainly not at these prices. Good food, smart service and the understated elegance of the restaurant combine to create the impression that you are spending more money than you are. That’s a sign of a good restaurant.

Browns Bar & Brasserie Covent Garden
82-84 St Martins Lane
Covent Garden
WC2N 4AA

Tel: 020 7497 5050