Get Your Oyster Fix at St Pancras Grand
Call me a lush, (and, given the current climate you’ve got every right to) but I can’t think of a better way to spend a tenner than on half a dozen fresh oysters. And I think I’ve found my new favourite place to do it.
For those of you not in the know, St Pancras Grand opened at the end of last year, and aside from serving quality British fare courtesy of chef Billy Reid, it has a rather lovely oyster bar at one end where you can slurp on the beauties to your heart’s content.
The restaurant itself is glamorously designed in a grandiose, modern if somewhat nostalgic for the lost days of chic rail travel style, the vaulted gold gilt ceilings hanging with huge dome lights and a three-faced clock (for the conscientious traveller) bearing down on the plush leather seating.
Lancashire-born and bred Reid comes with some top notch credentials, having worked at The Ritz, L’Escargot, The Belvedere and alongside Marco Pierre White, and he’s passionate about the quality and traceability of his ingredients. Which is why all of the five different varieties of oyster he’s serving at the long, elegant oyster bar are sourced from within the British Isles.
There’s the creamy, salty Lindisfarne (yes, like that classic ’80s band, but much classier, clearly), Carlingfordlough from Ireland, Cumbrae from Scotland, West Mercia from Colchester and Maldon Rocks from Essex. Reid buys the oysters from Richard Haward, a die-hard oyster specialist based in Borough market.
It’s incredible quite how different each variety tastes, some clearly stronger and saltier than others, but all of them bursting with that unforgettable, ozone-infused freshness of the sea itself. They come served on a platter of crushed ice with lemon, shallot and red wine vinaigrette, Tabasco and sourdough bread which is made onsite.
Reid’s vinaigrette is the perfect accompaniment, giving the oysters a sharp crunch that offsets their smoothness – though my favourite way of eating them is au natural, with a glass of very dry white wine.
Sitting at that bar, overlooking the restaurant with its twinkling glassware and luxurious furnishings while knocking back a delightful mouthful of the sea as busy travellers pass by outside bound for sunnier climes, it’s easy to forget about the doom and gloom this country is ensconced in. Surely that’s reason enough for a trip to The Oyster Bar?
The St Pancras Grand Restaurant and Oyster Bar is open daily between 11am and midnight
St Pancras International
Upper Concourse
King’s Cross NW1 9QP
Tel: 020 7870 9900





