The Phoenix Chelsea: Quality Pub Fare

The Phoenix is a very nice pub, down a very nice street in Chelsea. On the night we visit, it seems like it’s doing very well, as various festive gatherings crack open the fizz and start bar tabs. There’s a lot of good cheer in the cosy, softly lit bar area, and a lot of money too.

It’s an image in stark contrast to the gloomy figure revealed earlier in the year that pubs are closing at the rate of five a day. But The Phoenix isn’t your average wet-led, crisp touting, beer stained boozer – it’s a Chelsea gastropub, and it’s a Geromino Inn. Which means two things: an affluent crowd hungry for some posh-nosh, and a well polished posh-nosh food offering.

We secure one of the last remaining tables near the fire in the back dining room and are greeted by an incredibly jolly waiter who proceeds to look after us all night. He helps me choose the duck over the tuna (more on that later) and recommends a very lovely Pinot Noir which is delightfully soft and deep all at once.

Our starters come after a short wait – for the place is jam-packed – and when they do arrive the portions are generous. I go for the scallops, which come in a row (one with a topping of lumpfish roe) with artichoke puree – the combination of the two subtle flavours is pleasant but not mind-blowing.

My companion has the goats cheese tart, which is more like a pie – and being a massive pie fan, I see this as a very good thing. The goats cheese comes in a huge round slab, atop a big square of puff pastry, with a veritable forest of rocket leaves.

Our appetites suitably whetted, it’s time for the second courses. My pal’s seabream with puy lentils and red wine reduction comes flying a stiff sail of Parma ham which is a salty crisp of irresistible accompaniment.

My duck is satisfyingly crispy-skinned, with bright red, tender breast meat and a hearty helping of buttered green beans. We share some thick-cut, devilishly crunchy chips and some herb-buttered carrots to boot.

The meal lasts for what seems like an age, with us having to work pretty hard to get through the sheer volume of food on our plates – but we even manage to squeeze in a delectable apple tart with cider caramel to finish.

Which brings me onto my next point – the food at the Phoenix is hearty, good quality British fare, but it’s also very good value. And as we glance around us at the families, couples and friends tucking in, it’s not going unnoticed.

The Phoenix
23 Smith Street
Chelsea SW3 4EE

Tel: 020 7730 9182