Moshi Moshi is celebrating its 20th anniversary this month. Perched over the platforms at Liverpool Street Station, this incredibly suave little gem offers great sushi and fusion at sensible prices.
Moshi Moshi has a key passion: sustainability. It’s something I feel more fish restaurants should be sensitive towards, thus I’m excited to meet the owner, Caroline Bennett, to discuss this when I arrive for dinner one calm Tuesday evening above the busyness of commuters at Liverpool Street Station. To start, there are all sorts of quirky ingredients rarely used or frequently thrown away: prawn head crispies are essentially a fishy Asian pork scratching and at only £1.90 are a total gem on the menu. For the more squeamish, just shut your eyes for the first one and pretend you can’t see the eyes and legs.
If you’re feeling brave stump for the monkfish liver – known here as the ‘foie grass’ of the sea. I’ve never been much of a liver fan but this was a great example of how a wasted product can be rediscovered. Served on a bitter mooli base (a member of the radish family), its delicate texture feels incredibly luxurious while being gently creamy at the same time.
On to the sushi. I started off with the sashimi platter, featuring Cornish mackerel, sea bass, tuna and salmon from Loch Duart. The sashimi was well cut, beautifully fresh and a perfect blend of the different types of fish. I also loved that the mackerel was served raw rather than seared – the perfect example of how true sushi requires the freshest fish, and something you won’t find at many of the chain-style sushi bars. Moshi Moshi’s connection with their ingredients is so tangible, and it was great to be told tales about where my food had come from, and what fishing techniques were used. Other highlights on the menu include the nigiri, particularly the seared Cornish catch of the day (rarely-seen red mullet was the catch when I was there, served with a smoked paprika mayonnaise) or the delectable Isle of Mull diver-caught scallop nigiri, which will make you question why anyone would ever cook a scallop.
If you’re not a raw fish fan, how about rib eye steak and chips? Well, Moshi Moshi have a perfect fusion dish, so get ready for the twist: the 21-day hung Suffolk, grass fed steak is stir fried in a heady teriyaki sauce, served rare with courgettes and thin whiskers of sweet potato. On the side, order a glass of the biodynamic red wine, a French diem Bordeaux from 2011 which at £5.90 I think is a bit of a bargain for what is an incredibly expensive-tasting wine. It’s clean on the palette, but still rich, making it the perfect accompaniment for the steak.
The meal was so great that I was sadly disappointed at dessert. I’m currently a bit panna cotta-obsessed, so stumped for the ‘lemon sour panna cotta’ which was a disappointment after such a wonderful meal. The plain panna cotta was served in a sauce that reminded me of lemon glycerol cough medicine. Japanese restaurants take note: if you aren’t passionate about pudding – don’t serve it.
That said, my meal was great and I’ll definitely be back. The atmosphere inside Moshi Moshi is incredible – beautiful décor, fantastic tales of the sea and knowledgeable staff who are passionate about fresh, sustainable ingredients. All in all it makes for the perfect, and sustainable, example of fantastic sushi and great fusion.
Liverpool Street Station
Tel: 020 7247 3227 / 020 7247 3237