There is something primitive that is awoken in us whenever a flame whooshes into the air. Whether it is the combination of a lighter and deodorant or a bonfire untamed for the briefest of moments, that temporary bloom of ions, colours and potential danger makes for a thrilling spectacle. The flames coming off a flambé are another way in which to make an arresting sight although they haven’t been seen in a while. This style of cooking went out of fashion but is making a comeback at The Drift, the restaurant/bar in the heart of the City.

In true flambé style, the ingredients for the dishes are brought out on a cruise ship-style trolley. They are here along with the type of gas burner that all the keen kids had on Duke of Edinburgh trips – while I thought I could get along by cooking sausages with a cigarette lighter and a steady thumb.

The flames don’t get going until the main course and the starter of prawn salad of prawn cocktail had me wishing that the pyrotechnics would soon begin. The dish had a rather anaemic sauce and an unwelcome crunch to the prawns.

But all this was soon forgotten as the trolley was wheeled out and we were invited to take our pick from one of the three dishes available to be cooked in front of us. I plumped for the steak diane. In went the filet mignon to be fried in butter. The sauce was put together with shallots, butter, beef stock, cream and Worcestershire sauce.

Then came the time for the big blow out. The chef held the pan so as to concentrate the heat on a small area of it. This was done in order to make sure that there was enough heat to ignite the brandy, which was then poured. Edging backwards as the liquid hit the pan, we were treated to a grand display of well-controlled flames.

But did it produce a good steak? I mean, these party tricks are well and good but unless they are producing good quality steaks, then what’s the point? Fortunately, the steak along with the sauce were lip-smackingly good. I was going to point out to the chef that the accompanying potatoes were a little oversalted but I decided not to argue with a man who can direct flame.

The flambé menu comes in at £27.95 for three courses or £45.95 if you decide to add accompanying cocktails with each course. That £18 add-on might seem a bit of a jump but given that you would normally pay £7-8 for a cocktail, £18 for three is actually pretty reasonable. Just remember that if you go for the cocktails, make sure you keep them away from the guy doing the cooking. Your eyebrows will be eternally grateful.

The Drift
Heron Tower
110 Bishopsgate
The City
EC2N 4AY

Tel: 0845 468 0103

Image by ewen and donabel courtesy of Flickr

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Great Balls of Fire at The Drift

Imagine if New Year’s Eve lasted two weeks. Just one night can take enough planning, but in China, the New Year festivities go on for 15 days.

To celebrate the start of the very auspicious year of the dragon last Monday (23 January), I went to sample the cocktails and cuisine at ‘21st century and dim sum emporium’, Ping Pong.

The Bread Street venue, near St Paul’s, is one of several branches dotted around London. It had a modern stylish vibe with an airy feel enhanced by the floor to ceiling windows.

Cocktails lend themselves well to swish venues and during January and February, there are two additions to the usual menu. The vodka based ‘drogontini’ would suit those with a sweet tooth. I preferred the fruity ‘dragon kumquat’ which combined rum, kumquats, amaretto, apricot and basil seeds.

Basil also featured as a moreish flavour in the cashew nuts and in the sweet basil seafood soup, which had a lovely taste and aroma. A mixture of crispy spring rolls then appeared, including duck, the best seller.

The seafood wrap enveloped in cabbage looked innocent enough, especially with the decoration of alluring lime puree pearls. However, the ‘hint of chilli’ left my mouth like a furnace and overpowered the fish.

There was no risk of such heat from the dim sum. The chicken steamed dumpling was a little bland but the seafood and vegetarian ones were tasty – and healthy, I was told.

Plus, I always appreciate food I would never make at home. I could try, but apparently it takes 14 years to become a master dim sum maker. If you want to make a start on that, Ping Pong offers complimentary half hour classes.

The crispy prawn ball was a not so healthy, but yummy, delight. Deep fried shredded pastry encased a moist prawn filling.

There are also plenty of rice dishes. The braised beef rice pot was one of the seasonal offerings but it could have done with a little more sauce to soak into the coconut rice.

Although very full at this point, I squeezed in a chocolate fondant pudding with milk ice cream which was worth feeling slightly sick for.

Finally, I marvelled at the visual display from the flowering dragon eye tea. If you too are new to this, the bulb reacts with hot water to open into a flower and produce a refreshing brew.

I would go back to Ping Pong. It’s got nice flattering lighting, a non-intrusive background hum of music and chatter and an extensive menu which is keenly priced. It’s a good place to share a mixture of plates which range from £3 to £6 each.

A minor warning; although I carry ample permanent padding with me, the wooden benches felt a little uncomfortable towards the end of the meal but I’m sure that could have been numbed with another cocktail.

Ping Pong
1 Bread Street
St Paul’s
EC4M 9BE

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Chinese New Year at Ping Pong

When going out for food in London, trying out the cuisines of different countries, a certain amount of complacency can settle in the midst of this experimentation. Whether going for an Indian, out for some tapas or getting Chinese take-out, the thought process of ‘I know what I like’ takes over. The menu arrives, the familiar choice pops up and the order is given with no consideration of branching out and picking something new.

Yet the irony is that the labels of Chinese, Spanish, French, or whatever foreign food you fancy, are misleading. Do a little research into a country’s cuisine and you’ll find that there is really no such thing as Spanish or Brazilian. What is served up in London’s restaurants is a gathering up of a country’s collected produce with some concessions to the English palate – Chicken Tikka Masala being the obvious case in point.

But there rewards to be had in delving a little deeper into a country’s range of produce and expanding your horizons. Having a friendly guide helps and one place to find a pool of knowledge and sophistication is Cantina del Ponte, situated just opposite the Thames. Their Charcuterie Masterclass divides Italy up into different regions and allows the often-neglected local meat specialities to be savoured.

Our group started with the north of Italy, with produce coming from Alpine regions along with farms close to the French border. The meat coming from the latter was bresaola, air-dried beef. It had a sturdy texture yet allowing a variety of flavours to be enjoyed. Accompanying this were prosciutto (yes, the one you get on posh pizzas) and lardo. The latter is not that far removed from what you think it might be. Virtually all white due to the proportion of fat to meat.

It is something of a delicacy and a highly acquired taste. To get the best out of it, it is best to leave it in your mouth for a few seconds to soften it up. After this period of time, the flavours open up and beyond the heavy saltiness, you get spices like rosemary and cloves coming through.

Moving down to the centre of Italy, there was the chance to enjoy further specialities. Beyond Parma ham, meats such as wild boar salami and mortadella were more robust than the ones from up north. The wild boar salami uses a recipe that is over three hundred years old and has a very gamey flavour that you would not expect with this type of meat.

The final stop to the south saw meats with much more kick and spice. Starting off with the spicy salami, this delivered a reasonable amount of spice although not distracting from the flavours. The ante was certainly upped by the Calabrian salami called ‘Nduja. Essentially smoked pig fat with chilli pepper, this is something so potent as to only be eaten on toast and a small amount at that.

While not all of the meats were something I would choose again, the chance to find out more about their manufacture and the care and consideration that goes into making them made for an entertaining evening. Try them for yourself, but be warned that the ‘Nduja is seriously hot.

Cantina del Ponte
Butler’s Wharf Chop House
36e Shad Thames
London Bridge
SE1 2YE

Tel: 020 7403 5403

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Cantina del Ponte’s Meat Masterclass

When it comes to gatecrashing the celebrations of other nations, the English are spectacularly speedy to invite themselves to any kind of party. St Patrick’s Day? Yeah, I think I’ve got an Irish uncle or Irish setter or something. Diwali? Yeah, I’m like totally into Buddhism or Hinduism and stuff, and there’s dancing? I’m in.

Yet when it comes to the closest thing that the Scottish have to a national day, Burns Night, we seem a little reticent to get involved. Perhaps it’s the fact that the night comes in January, a month where people are either trying to take it easy or are very much continuing that health kick, which, on average, only lasts until the first episode of Britain’s Got Talent hits our screens. Or perhaps it’s down to the fact that when it comes to muscling in on someone else’s party, the Scottish tend to be folk ye dinnae mess wih.

Yet despite the Scots’ reputation for being quick to ire, as seen in the recent skirmishes over the proposed Scottish independence, Burns Night is quite a genteel occasion. As you might expect with the celebration of Scotland’s finest poet Robert ‘Rabbie’ Burns. There are dinners and whisky tastings going on all over the capital on the 25th and The London Word has shortlisted where you can go to get either a portion of Scottish cuisine or utterly pished…

For anyone on a budget, you might want to start rooting around in the attic or see if you can borrow a kilt. This is because anyone who rocks up to Grazing, down by Monument, either wearing tartan or belching out ‘music’ on the bagpipes, will be given a free meal of the famed haggis, neeps and tatties (haggis, parsnips and potatoes for the uninitiated). For those unable to beg, steal or borrow, it’s from £6.50 a portion.

It is traditional to indulge in some haggis, neeps and tatties but it is good to have something else with it. You can find this at the Angel and Crown down by Covent Garden. Along with the haggis, there is the traditional cock-a-leekie to start and the Typsy Laird, a sherry triffle that will be warming as well as sweet.

It would be remiss to miss out on Scotland’s best-loved contribution to the world, that of whisky. For those looking to get a more nuanced understanding of this most wondrous of drinks, head down to the Avalon in Clapham. There you’ll be given a tutorial about the various different whiskies along with paired Scottish canapés so that you’ll be able to tell your Glenkinchie from your Dalwhinnie.

If you fancy spending Burns Night in style, the Rib Room in Knightsbridge has put together a five-course tasting menu. The meal takes in produce found all over Scotland and includes a cocktail on arrival.

Whatever you end up doing, have a great Burns Night. Even if it means using your best Sean Connery impression to have a good time.

Grazing
19 Great Tower Street
The City
EC3R 5AR

Tel: 020 7283 2932

The Angel & Crown
58 St. Martin’s Lane
Covent Garden
WC2N 4EA

Tel: 020 7748 5244      

The Avalon
16 Balham Hill
Balham
SW12 9EB

Tel: 020 8675 8613      

The Rib Room Bar & Restaurant
Jumeirah Carlton Tower
Cadogan Place
Knightsbridge
SW1X 9PY

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Burns Night 2012

Although the name offered visions of ranks of internet terminals and people beavering away on World of Warcraft in between gulps of green curry, @Siam turned out to be an excellent moderately priced Thai option in the heart of Soho.

Ducking out of a dreary evening, @Siam presented itself to us in purple and black, with hardly any attempt to invoke south-east Asian clichés like bamboo chairs and reed mats. Instead, it’s a crisp, busy space which looks out onto Frith Street, with plenty of room and plenty to choose from on an unorthodox menu, which covers pretty much all of the regions of Thailand.

Its website describes it as ‘comtemporary Thai’ – forgiving the spelling mistake, it’s an accurate description. This is not a veneer of modernity though, but the bringing together of different foodways from the regions of Thailand in an unpretentious setting. Of course, there are green and red curries here, but the usual fare of Pad Thai or Massaman is eclipsed by a variety of different approaches to Thai food. And they score well for both diversity and execution, with no real misfires along the way.

To begin with, we opted for Kor Moo Yang – a northern Thai dish made from grilled marinated pork with spicy tamarind, which subtly blended a barbeque-style flavour with tamarind and coriander sauce. Along with that we went for the Tod Man Pla, Thai fishcakes which came as elastic little medallions, accompanied by a sharply spiced sweet chilli sauce.

For the mains, we delved straight for the chef’s specials section, where the ‘Weeping Tiger’ could hardly be avoided. So named due to the fabled ability of its sauce to reduce a tiger to tears, it came as a rare beef steak with Thai sauce – minimal but gratefully received, although no tears were induced by the sauce. For my part, the steamed seabass cooked in lemon was a delight. Topped by lemon and infused with it as well, the moderate spiciness complemented the fish and tartness perfectly.

Dessert was mainly themed around sorbets and ices. We went for the water chestnuts and ice cream, and a lime and lemongrass sorbet, both executed well. In the case of the water chestnuts, although the dish appeared akin to a deconstructed trifle, it certainly worked.

All of this was accompanied by a solid 2010 Michel Torino Malbec, and the wine list was comprehensive. The staff are attentive and busy, and the buzz of the restaurant grew as we ate, while never becoming overpowering. @Siam is small, but not cramped, generating atmosphere without the need raise your voice.

Prices are moderate, with the seabass main coming in at around £15 and starters somewhat under £10. At prices like that, it’s well worth a visit, and more so due to the choice of regional dishes on display. The chefs are from north and north east Thailand, but have a repertoire stretching to southern and central Thai dishes, meaning that @Siam can offer a great deal more than standard Thai eateries.

@Siam
48 Frith Street
Soho
W1D 4SF

Tel: 0207 494 4511

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@Siam in the Heart of Soho

Mid-nibble of a buttery mini teacake, my attention is wrenched away from the quality and refinement of the new tea room at Harrods to a conspicuously loud slurp. Stifling a giggle, I seek out the culprit and discover the noisy intake of liquid is part of a professional demonstration on how to taste tea.

A range of black, green, fruit and ‘exclusive’ teas are available to taste and I discover the slurping is a technique to oxidise the tea. This is followed by swirling it like mouthwash to coat the entire palate. I’m all ready to gargle but it’s time to gulp it down and discuss. My reactions are basic, consisting of ‘like’ or ‘dislike’ but in the professional commentary, I hear phrases like ‘robust cut’ and ‘full and enticing’.

Being an unadventurous English Breakfast girl, it was a pleasure to taste a selection of teas from around the world. A delicate rose tea stood out and a show-stopping moment was a beautiful golden waterfall produced by pouring the 22-carat gold tea. Drinking gold is surely a waste of a potential earring? But the tasting notes revealed it was actually a black tea with ‘an abundance of golden tips’.

Back in my comfort zone I then sampled the food on offer. Don’t be misled by this eatery’s name. As well as serving alcohol, the Tea Room offers a range of hot and cold British staples at any time of the day. I tried the yoghurt and rhubarb compote which was a fresh healthy option. A savoury bun felt vaguely virtuous but then I turned to the main event.

For some people, afternoon tea may be about the tea, but for me, it’s all about the cakes. A cake stand with a dozen inviting varieties sent me into a spin of indecision. Was it too early for a boozy English trifle? How many could I manage before feeling sick?

The strawberry jam tart with rosewater scented marshmallows was memorable as was the thick wedge of icing on the Victoria sandwich. I could have eaten several of the passionfruit possets but after polishing off a chocolate and mint dome, my self-control decided to reappear.

There are various levels of indulgence for this tradition. You can limit yourself to tea and scones for £12.50 or choose five afternoon tea fancies for £14.50. My favourite is to tuck in to the lot which includes sandwiches, scones and fancies for £29. Or spoil yourself further with a glass of champagne as well for £36.

The setting is not quite as lush as I imagined Harrods might opt for but it’s comfortable and pleasant and any time spent in the Tea Room is the perfect antidote to the rush and stresses of life, particularly at this time of year.

Harrods Tea Room
87-135 Brompton Road
Knightsbridge
SW1X 7XL

Tel: 020 8479 5100

Image by Magnus D courtesy of Flickr

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Taking Tea at Harrods

Just when you thought you’d had enough of pop-ups, along comes another one. This time a whole ‘pop-up park’ if you will, although don’t expect any greenery.

Boxpark in Shoreditch is a temporary shopping mall, made up entirely of shipping containers. Mini versions of urban outlets like Puma, Levi’s and Boxfresh sit along lesser-known stores that you wonder how will stump up the rent such as Cyber Candy – a shop entirely devoted to American and Antipodean sweets.

The mall is also home to the world’s first ever Smiley retail store. Yes, that’s right, a whole 40 square feet devoted to the iconic acid rave smiley face. Not your average clothes shop, the Boxpark Smiley store doubles up as a room to rave in coming complete with laser and smoke machines, a sound system and DJ decks built in to the cash and wrap area!

But raving was not on my agenda, when I visited Box Park with The London Word‘s editor Nick Purves… food was.

We visited to have lunch at Hop-Namo. ‘Hop’, meaning ‘box’ in Vietnamese, is the box-sized off-shoot of the original and very popular neighbourhood Namo restaurant in Victoria Park.

The wood-clad eatery was filled with the aroma of Vietnamese cooking smells and burning incense and was busy and buzzing on our visit. We chose from a simple menu of Pho, Vietnamese (Ban Mi) baguettes and salads.

I believe I counted no less than three chefs and five waiting staff in the tiny kitchen so it was no surprise that our food and drink was all served exceptionally Quickly. Hop Namo’s speedy service makes it a great spot for locals wanting a fast but fresh lunch.

I opted for a Mango & Kolrabi salad with crispy tofu. A classic Vietnamese salad with shredded raw vegetables doused in a tasty, tangy dressing of chilli, lime-juice, sugar and fish sauce. The crispy tofu was so good I’d actually say that I enjoyed it equally to if I would have opted for the duck or chicken version – a strong statement from a meat lover.

Nick had a Pho with rumptail beef, which he deemed as very pleasant with just the right amount of ginger and flavour.

We finished up with two generous-sized pieces of incredibly sweet mango and pineapple cake and a Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk and then set on our ways bouncing off the walls on a sugar high all the way home.

Box Park is right next to the Shoreditch station on the fabulous new East London line so definitely worth ‘popping’ by.

Hop-Namo
Boxpark Units 48 & 49
Bethnal Green Road
Shoreditch
E1 6GY

Tel: 020 7729 9723

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Hop-Namo at Boxpark

This week, my partner and I shopped, diving around looking for bargains in the January sales, and then dropped into Tamarai, Covent Garden’s acclaimed finest pan-Asian restaurant on Drury Lane.

We were there to try out their new menu – which offers three courses for just £15. Being a fussy eater, I’m not usually a fan of set menus but Tamarai gives you the luxury of selecting one dish per course from their heterogeneous three-course menu. I was impressed with the choice.

We arrived and were starving, and I am pleased to say the portion sizes didn’t disappoint – for £15 per person this is certainly value for money.

Starter dishes included Thai crispy vegetables, tossed chicken salt and pepper, which we loved, corn-fed chicken spring rolls, chilli mushrooms with popped amaranth and black and white sesame prawn toast with hand pounded chilli plum dip, another one of our favourites.

Sumptuous mains included black tiger prawns with butter pepper garlic, which – as a huge prawn fan – I loved, Thai red vegetable curry with the option to include chicken or prawns and crispy fish with kafir lime sauce and crispy basil.

After our plates piled high were then polished off, I wasn’t sure if there was room for pudding but, with such a yummy selection, it would have been rude not too. My sticky toffee pudding with banana ice cream was delicious and my partner’s coconut and palm sugar brûlée with elderflower sorbet was equally as nice. I’m glad I had what I did but with other options like date and sesame pancake with Madagascan vanilla ice cream we could have ordered everything on the menu.

Overall, we enjoyed our meal. There were a couple of disappointments as the service was a little slow to begin with and my starter came out wrong – but all the food was well presented, hot and the portion sizes were generous.

With vegetarian options available as well, and at good value for this amount of food, it’s definitely a good place to visit. However, the underground nightclub-like environment (formerly the Millennium nightclub) doesn’t make it the best place for a romantic meal for two but the LCD screens, glittering chandeliers and super-cool music makes it perfect for groups looking for a good night out in a relaxed environment – just be prepared to talk loudly and ignore the odd imperfection in the velvet décor, it’s not brand new but hey who’s looking that diligently?

Tamarai
167 Drury Lane
Covent Garden
WC2B 5PG

Tel: 0207 831 9299

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Covent Garden’s Pan-Asian Tamarai

You know you’re in a posh part of town when you see a Coutt’s ATM. For those of you are unaware of this particular British institution, it’s a bank where you are required to have at least half a million in disposable funds before you can open an account. Put it another way, it’s where the Queen banks. Not literally of course. I expect there is someone else who stands in line, desperately trying to remember the royal sort code.

I passed the well to do hole in the wall on my way to dine at the Rib Room, which has had a completely new refit in the past year. The revamp has served it well with the open kitchen now hidden away and the bar relocated to make it a more inviting prospect to those looking to drop in for a simple drink.

The décor is elegant and classy, very similar to that of Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard. There are three private dining areas as well as a forthcoming cigar terrace. Even more promising was the revelation that the menu has been overseen by none other than Ian Rudge, head chef at the Michelin-starred Northcote Manor in Lancashire.

One innovation that has already caught on at the restaurant is that of the wine list being condensed down onto an iPad. Instead of trying to navigate through a bulky compendium, simply flick through to find a wine. Although a welcome development, it could benefit from providing a little more information about the wines and what they would work well with.

For starter, I plumped for the roasted lamb sweetbreads, caramalised cauliflower and toasted almonds. Sweetbreads are always difficult to get exactly right and I found mine to be the wrong side of chewy. However, the combination with the cauliflower and almonds was much more successful.

For my main course, I chose the rack of Cornish lamb with shallot compote and Jerusalem artichoke. The lamb was wonderfully done with a pleasing sturdiness to the meat and a fulsome accompaniment by the shallot and artichoke.

After such a hearty dish, it was time for a little slump back into my chair. Looking down the dessert menu, I saw one dish that I might be able to fit in. I lucked out on the white chocolate and cardamom set cream with coffee and whisky jelly. Not only because it drew an admiring glance from the person taking my order, not only because it was probably the only thing my stomach could manage but also because it was rich and complex without being too heavy.

The revamp of the restaurant has been substantial, and there is much to admire about a place that after 50 years is going the right way to becoming an institution. You might not get much change out of £50 for three courses but there’s always an ATM round the corner if you need more cash.

The Rib Room Bar & Restaurant
Jumeirah Carlton Tower
Cadogan Place
Knightsbridge
SW1X 9PY

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Belgravia’s Rib Room

When is a pub not a pub? In my mind, when it’s a gastro pub or, even better, when it’s a gastro pub and pantry.

One such venue is the Hampshire Hog which has recently opened on King Street, Hammersmith, in the spot the Ruby Grand used to occupy. Along with its onsite shop, the pub offers two brunch options until 4pm and dinner from 6.30pm.

The dedicated pub area merges seamlessly into the ever so slightly more formal restaurant space which looks out onto the spacious beer garden. The room is inviting, simply decorated in white with a few intricate features dotted around.

It is run by the owners of the now defunct Engineer in Primrose Hill and on the Friday night I was there, it was populated in part by a loyal following from north London. Busy and brimming with energy, the bubbly staff also emitted the excited buzz of a new venture.

Opting for some bar snacks to start, the salmon ‘sashimi’ was a satisfying choice, succulent and oozing oriental flavours. The chunky zucchini fritti were recommended as ‘really light’, and they didn’t disappoint, although I think I was kidding myself to think a deep fried vegetable fell into the healthy category.

Ranging from £12 to £22 with sides extra, mains are a little pricey. But you do get restaurant quality, just in a more relaxed environment. In this way, the Hampshire Hog blurs the distinction between pub and restaurant.

I tried the whole grilled bream, beautifully cooked, although the accompanying lentils were a little salty for my taste. Always faithful to meat, my companion had the chargrilled ribeye, commenting favourably on its divine texture.

There were some unusual twists on the menu, such as cornflake ice cream, an intriguing and refreshing change from vanilla. Another highlight was the generous autumn fruit crumble, perfect for this time of year.

Next to the pub is The Pantry. Open every day until 5pm, it serves a range of teas, ‘super juices’, snacks and ready meals. Healthy options are available but I was so distracted by the massive chunks of fudge, I didn’t really notice. A subsequent look at the menu revealed such delights as autumn squash, sage and halloumi turkish wrap (£5) and tuna carpaccio, chilli, capers and amalfi lemon (£8).

One word of warning; on certain evenings, the alcohol induced volume of speech is turned up to maximum so get ready to join in or re-plan your romantic evenings. Friday night was undoubtedly loud but we were told that other times, for example Sunday brunch, have a much more chilled vibe.

The Hampshire Hog
227 King Street
Hammersmith
W6 9JT

Tel: 020 8748 3391

This post is from The London Word and should not be republished elsewhere without prior permission. Please check out our site for more great stories and features.

The Hampshire Hog in Hammersmith