For butter or wurst, my greatest highs and deepest lows happen when I am armed with cutlery. I am, I suppose, a manic depressive of the dinner table.
23
Apr
2010
Blackheath’s Bella Vista
Tyndall’s Jenga of crisp, lightly seasoned Polenta chips proved the meal’s revelation: the best use for maize I can imagine
26
Mar
2010
Nipo-Brasileiro Dining
A trio of quivering seaweeds, aromatic as an oyster shell, came with a pot of inner Milky Way bar textured ponzu
5
Jun
2009
Indian Chefs Offer Food for Thought
Food for Thought, an initiative born by charity Find Your Feet, aims to help stave off hunger and malnutrition in rural Northern India
20
May
2009
The Landmark Hotel’s twotwentytwo
With dark panelling and bulky, jester-print armchairs, the dining room resembles ‘Hélène Darroze at The Connaught’
25
Apr
2009
The Underground Restaurant
The shrill doorbell made me snigger in nervous anticipation as to who might weave past with a password
14
Apr
2009
Saki of Smithfield Celebrates Cherry Blossom
I test-dined Smithfield’s Saki to see whether Chef Omakase’s seven-course ‘Cherry Blossom’ tasting menu captured the essence of spring
6
Apr
2009
Eagles Tremble in Mayfair With Vic Reeves
Vic Reeves’ suit may have upstaged his art. Despite atmospheric twilight, he insisted on the flash when I took his portrait
30
Mar
2009
Food With a Side of Art in Wapping
The canvases provide a glamorous contrast to the industrial atmosphere of the grade two turbine halls, where much of the machinery that powered the docks survives
27
Feb
2009
Brick Lanes’ All Star Lanes
Whilst bouncers prowl the entrance, inside it feels fun and filmic. A wedge of 1950s America inserted in the East End
23
Jan
2009
Dining at The Guardian Canteen
A hack from a national newspaper recently lured me to lunch at his brand new HQ. All was not well within its wavy, gleaming glass walls
