London Fashion Week: Jean-Pierre Braganza

In a nutshell, Braganza’s ‘Architectonic’ collection explores the accidental elegance of industrialism and the natural landscape in Detroit. ‘The idea is of Detroit being a metropolis,’ says Braganza. ‘A heavy city, then all of a sudden due to the economic times and industry leaving, it’s withered away, but it’s part of that beauty, that derelict dystopia that I’m so enamoured with.’

The synonymous hybrid of the two elements sees stiff, architectural blocks of sombre beige and tar black panels amongst floating silks and the lightest touch of sheer mesh. Swirling marble prints could be interpreted either way, one moment appearing to resemble terrain, the next emulating iridescent oil on tarmac. There was a clear 1920s Metropolis theme throughout the collection with angular shapes appearing on tailored blazers and shorts in monochrome, resulting in sharp tuxedo-inspired pieces.

However, in true Braganza style the exact opposite was also apparent throughout the collection in the shape of feathered fringing and opulently adorned shoulders and hemlines in a modern twist on the flapper dress. It chimed perfectly with the past, but still retained its modern concept. Many pieces had a great desk-to-party feel about them. Braganza obviously knows us modern women rather well. Machine parts and flowers were printed on to minimalist blazers and architectural dresses whilst softer, relaxed silhouettes of oversized T-shirt dresses and silk trains were encrusted with laser cut motifs, emulating the contrast of the derelict architecture and the fluidity of the organic surroundings.

All in all, the collection was darkly romantic, yet thoughtful. Bravo, Braganza.

London Fashion Week SS15 runs from Friday 12 to Tuesday 16 February. Stay tuned for further coverage…

Photo by Charlotte White