I must admit I went along to PINGHE not even being able to pronounce the designer’s name. ‘Pinggg…?’ I enquired awkwardly as I presented my ticket. I soon discovered (from those far trendier around me) that it was indeed pronounced as two words ‘Ping’ (which is the designer’s name) and ‘He’. Glad we got that sorted. Anyway, it was Ping’s second Fashion Scout appearance at fashion week and there was something of a buzz (not to mention a gale force wind) as we waited patiently outside Freemason’s Hall.
Once we were inside the room blackened and a striking Chinese gong-style arrangement started playing. What with the intricate temple-esque gates carving the catwalk in half it was all a bit creepy and ritualistic. Most exciting.
The collection was futuristic and all about texture. Chunky wool, fur, perspex, leather; name a material and it was in there. A personal favourite was an immensely chunky red jumper with woven plaits and fake fur shoulder pads. Again, as we’ve seen in a couple of shows the neck was worked high – the roll neck is definitely making a come back as a much cooler version of its former self. Other standouts were little faux fur cropped vests, massive oversized hoods on cropped coats (again, very Eudon Choi and sure to be a major player for AW) and beautiful mannish but tailored overcoats.
The whole collection was played out in monochrome and grey with splashes of red and gold. Shoes were those now infamous high tops in gold and cream. Waists were cinched in from a sea of faux fur gilets and deconstructed sheer latex skirts clung to thighs and kicked out fish tail-style from shins.
The model casting spoke volumes about the collection, with very blonde wispy girls; hair harshly clipped back school-style with hair grips in a centre parting. Make up was white and waxy; envoking shiny plastic mannequins with a gold wash across eyelids. The girls glided like the undead with expressionless eyes and mournful expressions. All very creepy.
Ping’s former role as part of Alexander McQueen’s design team really came across with high drama, high glamour and no holding back. She founded PINGHE in 2011 and this is her second showing at fashion week. Definitely one to watch…
London Fashion Week SS14 runs from Friday 14 to Tuesday 18 February. Stay tuned for further coverage.