A collection featuring ponyskin boots with a perspex heel and tassles can never be a bad thing and Eudon Choi’s offering was no exception. But being the clever man he is, Choi didn’t stop at the booties; there were enormous furry snoods, oversized hoods and an overall mod vibe with a rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack to match.
So, first things first. Never did I think I’d use the words ‘chunky roll neck’ together in a positive way. But Eudon Choi can do magical things, roll necks included. Worn under printed jumpers with slim fit cigarette pants the garment was given a whole new lease of elegant life. The polo neck was also reinvented in a second, more stylised way with stiff, shirt collar style neck wraps emerging from tunic tops, loose dresses and varsity jackets; almost like back to front school shirts in white and light blue. This layering ran throughout, with longer blouse-style sleeves appearing from underneath short dresses and jumpers.
I’ve always been a fan of a uniform reference in a collection and this was carried into the colour scheme with a wash of rich navy, black and grey with bright accents of red, mustard and raspberry peppered in; inspiration indeed for our AW14 palettes.
I was delighted to see checks were still de rigeur with masculine double-breasted coats and swing dresses covered in the joyful, intercrossing lines of black watch style tartan. The pattern ran onto parka style jackets sporting enormous fur lined hoods which swung low down on the back. The faux fur was also worked onto huge wraps which were like enormous snoods entirely circling the body and worn low around the chest.
This collection really reaffirmed Eudon Choi ‘s original training as a menswear designer which makes perfect sense in the immaculate tailoring and sharp lines. Mixed with the slouchy feel of the oversized hoods and roll necks, the combination was one that worked with ease.
The ’60s mod feel of the whole thing was a real surprise – it felt British, playful and entirely wearable from beginning to end, which can be a rare treat at fashion week. Most definitely my favourite yet.
London Fashion Week SS14 runs from Friday 14 to Tuesday 18 February. Stay tuned for further coverage.
Image by Charlotte White