Mother Clucker Chicken Pop-Up, Soho

By the time you read this, the Mother Clucker takeover at The Endurance might well be over but fear not, you didn’t miss too much. That’s not to say that the twice fried, free range chicken isn’t tasty, it’s just not kill-yourself-for-not-dashing-down-there-sooner outstanding. In short, unless you’ve been on the booze, it’s mother clucking average.

For those who haven’t been, The Endurance is a cool boozer. The décor is no frills but some white chicken footprints leading from the entrance to the bar discretely announce the six week Mother Clucker invasion. My dinner date and I opted for some Red Stripe, a beverage loosely in keeping with the southern-style grub. At £4.20 a go it’s almost as expensive as a set of six wings. Unsurprisingly, as more and more beer was chugged down, our desire for the fried stuff went up.

We opted to sample the Clucker Combo, which consisted of a (literal) cup of scrumptious ‘cluster clucks’ (the equivalent of KFC’s ‘popcorn’ chicken) and a French trimmed drumstick with 12 hours of brining, 12 hours of sitting in a buttermilk hot sauce and two rounds of frying behind it. This little lot was accompanied by fries and a couple of buttermilk biscuits which are not actual biccies but are rather more flakey, fluffy and bread-like than Bourbon-esque.

A barrel of baby wipes might have been handy when it came to clearing up the aftermath of grease and homemade hot sauce. Hard to believe that this calorific nosh is the stuff a slender, Daisy Duke-clad Britney Spears chomped on as she grew up in Louisiana.

The folk behind MC pride themselves on being a cut above the average fast food and their choice of distinguished suppliers sure does support this idea. The meat comes from a free range poultry farm who claim to produce the best birds using the highest welfare and MC’s secret signature blend of spices come from SpiceMountain who specialise in traditional flavours and exotic rarities.

When you’ve had yourself a few jars of luke warm beer at a festival this summer, keep your peepers open for the ‘Cluck Truck’ and indulge in some fried poultry. But be warned, stay well clear if you’ve forgotten your wet wipes.

The Mother Clucker pop up runs until Sunday 28 April at:

The Endurance
90 Berwick Street

Tel: 020 7437 2944

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