Jean-Pierre Braganza was the surprise favourite of the first day of London Fashion Week. The Central St Martins-trained designer has been a London Fashion Week up and comer for a few seasons now, showing off his dark and edgy wares to fashion-forward supporters. But this season, his collection was more coherent, clean and accomplished than ever before.
Promoted to centre stage (the BFC Catwalk Show Space) in Somerset House, he did not disappoint the hundreds of hungry fashion journos, buyers and gurus, many of whom were clapping their eyes on his handiwork for the very first time. Clean lines, light fabrics and clever tailoring made the collection effortlessly cool.
Dry brushstroke prints made shirts, trousers and dresses pop, the design in homage to Zinaida Likhacheva, a Ukranian abstract artist who has become his friend and muse. The flashes of bright colour brought some of her character into the collection.
Wispy plaited hair and fresh-faced makeup held the whole thing together. Eyes were lined with a strong azure-blue to keep the look youthful. Braganza clearly had a cool, young working woman in mind when putting together this very wearable collection.
Each look flowed from one to the next, with creative heads whirring as they paired different combinations of pieces in their heads. It’s Braganza’s tailoring that really makes him stand out, and this collection was no different. There were classic forms with futuristic elements – sometimes soft, sometimes structured, sometimes asymmetrical. He really showed off his prowess.
A white trouser suit was a standout look, as well as a cleverly cut LBD. The buttoned up shirts with sharp collars were immediately on everyone’s wish lists. Everything was flattering and dare we say practical, but individual twists such as the clever use of the abstract prints would make the wearer feel unique. Keep your eyes on this Canadian-bred designer, his career is about to go stratospheric.
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 takes place on September 14 to 18.
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Image courtesy of Artee-Lynne Mamawag