5
May
2012

Vivek Singh’s Cinnamon Soho

I’ll admit it, I’m a narcissist. To do this job, going to restaurants and spouting forth your opinion, you have to be. I not so bad as to be permanently attached to a mirror, stroking my flaxen hair and making little kisses in between whispering, ‘You’re just delicious and you know it.’

Yet I am the type of guy who will read an interview with a celebrity (the type you get in weekend newspaper magazines) and imagine the answers that I would give. You know the kind, ‘What type of thing makes you happy?’, ‘What do you owe your parents?’ and ‘Who would play you in the film of your life?’

The answers to the respective questions are tea when hungover, my sense of humour as well as a lot of money and Keira Knightly. Just if you were interested.

Another question that is often asked is ‘Which living people do you admire?’ My answer would be Chuck Berry, Chris Morris and Vivek Singh. You may be familiar with the first two, one of the pioneers of rock n’ roll and the satirist behind Brass Eye but the last be unknown to you. However, you really should.

Vivek Singh’s collection of restaurants includes Cinnamon Kitchen and the Cinnamon Club, the latter being probably my favourite restaurant in London. His latest venture, just off Regent Street, downplays the elegance and finery of his other restaurants to create a vibe more in fitting with its new Soho home. The venue was previously the swanky Red nightclub and that laid back atmosphere remains.

Singh has built his formidable reputation on applying Indian cooking techniques to typical British dishes. As soon as I took the menu and saw the roganjosh shepherd’s pie, I knew I had to have it. But first there was the small matter of getting the starters.

I plumped for the Coorgi pork stir-fry after ascertaining that Coorgi was a group of people from India and not a misspelling. My companion went for the tandoori chicken leg with mint. The marinade on the pork was exquisite, rendering the pork light and sweet. My companion thought her chicken leg a tad on the dry side but with plenty of flavour.

Onto the mains and whilst my companion dithered over her selection, I eagerly pointed to the Roganjosh shepherd’s pie and handed the menu back. My companion finally selected the smoked saddle of Cumbrian lamb with spiced onion sauce. Both of these showcased Singh’s prowess at reimagining British classic dishes with Indian cooking methods. The roganjosh aspect of the shepherd’s pie wasn’t overbearing, merely a sumptuous twist on a well known favourite. The same was the case with the lamb, which was infused with a delicate balance of spices.

Our desserts of chocolate and cumin cake along with lassi panna cotta with glazed figs were neat packages of sweetness and an excellent way to finish off a delightful meal.

The latest venture by Vivek Singh is probably not be best place to sample his genius but is a great place to start. It’s also an inexpensive venture with three courses setting you back around £30.

Cinnamon Soho
5 Kingly Street
Soho
W1B 5PF

Tel: 020 7437 1664

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