28
Mar
2012

Aminaka Wilmont Autumn/Winter 2012

Queen and king of print Maki Aminaka and Marcus Wilmont have taken their label Aminaka Wilmont to new levels of luxe style this season, showcasing an extensive collection inspired by the darker side of nature, with not a floral in sight. The new Aminaka Wilmont woman is fearless, feminine and sultry, with an unmistakable edge, though the aesthetic of the line is minimalistic and sleek.

When asked backstage at London Fashion Week about the thought process for the season, Marcus told me ‘there were so many sources of inspiration we got drawn to… it was impossible to work them into a story. It ended up being more like building a muse, so we were looking at witches and ghosts…we’re looking at nature really, and we just moulded it together to form this woman’.

The pair’s digital prints are inspired by gems, quartz and crystals, alongside serpents, tropical birds, and molten glass, revealing an array of elements. The mood at their recent LFW show was set as models skulked down the catwalk like creatures of the night, under a dimly-lit stage, creating a sense of drama and suspense around the collection.

The colour palette is at times neutral and earthy, then juxtaposed with more strong and fiery pieces, though the silhouette is clean and fluid with soft draping, playing to the brand’s signature style. With the designer duo continuing their experimentation with print, I asked Marcus what it was that draws them to it. ‘I think it is an extra tool that you have as a designer. Designing is like having a tool box. There are things you can do with fabric and print… it’s an extra sort of communication tool you can have.’

Outerwear and accessories are a particularly strong aspect of the collection, with washed leather jackets and Toscana fur being key pieces for autumn/winter 2012. The collection is toughened up and given a modern touch in the form of glass neckpieces and collars. Designed by digital glass artist Kane Cali, the effect is said to create ‘a second skin, reflecting off the body’.

Marcus agreed that the glass creations are central to the theme, ‘the show is called Vitra, meaning glass, we had this image of a woman made of glass and crystal that we really wanted to achieve’.

So, working as a pair, how does a collection initially take shape, I asked Marcus. ‘We start off the season researching separately and then we come together after that. We then have a huge fall out but it’s actually through that conflict that we get to arrive to this place.’ He laughed. ‘Ideas get changed by perspective. She’ll say “Can’t we do it like this?” and change it around and they end up being better than originally thought. I wouldn’t want to do this by myself.’

With a nod to autumn/winter 2012’s gothicism, yet retaining the confidence and sensual femininity of the Aminaka Wilmont woman, once again the designer duo have delivered us a collection that women will really want to wear.

 

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