Explore Dubrovnik in Winter

The beautiful walled city of Dubrovnik is a great place to explore out of season. 

During the summer months, thousands of tourists spill off the cruise ships to spend a couple of hours scoffing ice cream and buying tat before being whisked off to the next European must-see. 

This, combined with the scorching heat, makes walking around the walls a bit of a mission. Once you’ve clambered up the dusty steps and begun circling the perimeters, the cool breeze from the Adriatic is a godsend. 

Out of season, things are calmer, cooler and cheaper – flights from London are an absolute steal. 

It’s the perfect time to explore the nooks and crannies in Old Town, where great bars, galleries and shops are waiting to be discovered. Classical music fans should check out the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. 

Autumn and winter is harvest time for foodies. Olive growers are picking and vineyards are squishing, slurping, and offering tours. Croatian cooking is hearty and wholesome – perfect for the cooler months. I tried goat under the bell (a deliciously slow cooked stew) in 30-degree heat and it felt a bit like tucking into a Christmas dinner on the beach. 

To get the best views of the city, head up on the cable car. The scenery is jaw-dropping and you can grab a coffee while taking it all in. Make sure you leave time to check out the Homeland War Museum up there. The cable car itself was bombed in the early Nineties and has only recently been reopened. It’s another sign that this war-ravaged city is putting the past behind it. 

Dubrovnik’s a great base for island hopping. Croatia boasts a thousand of them, each with their own personality. Korcula, Mljet and Pag are my favourites. 

Further inland, there are some amazing skiing opportunities. The Olympic ski slopes of Bjelasnica are just a few hours’ drive away, and only half an hour from Sarajevo. This place really does have everything. 

Next time: Cheap ski retreats…