After working as a ‘ghost’ designer for nearly 20 years, Kinder Aggugini has been biding his time, earning a reputation whilst working for Galliano, Westwood and Versace.
Unsurprising then, that his London Fashion Week show at the weekend – with an invitation displaying a blood – spattered porcelain doll – was highly anticipated and has since been described by Hilary Alexander as a fashion ‘moment’.
The show was a display of colour and fabric so lavish and presented with such theatrical confidence that one can hardly believe it is only his second solo show at London Fashion Week, after debuting in February this year.
Based on, and inspired by, traditional fairytales, with a darker edge playing on a theme of evil and innocence, Aggugini mixed patterns and shapes, creating a surreal show topped off by oversized Mad Hatter accessories. The potentially OTT designs, where dresses were rudely opened up to reveal contrasting patterns, was haunting and seriously beautiful.
Delicate holepunch cut-outs on fushica and scarlet tribal fabrics and Chanel-like tailored jackets gave the floaty silk dresses strength. Shimmering snakeskin was punctuated by neon splashes of colour and the pairing of sky blue with black striped dresses and polka dots was undeniably Alice in Wonderland.
Aggugini thanked LFW with a 25th anniversary special; a floor length Union Jack dress, combining punky stripes and braces with a Westwood-esque gathered fabric skirt. This collection was fashion as sheer entertainment, a feast for the celeb-packed front-row that took LFW’s shows to another level.