Described as London’s best Pan Asian fusion restaurant, as well as a nightclub and cocktail bar, Tamarai is definitely a fusion of something; it’s just not sure what.

Set on Drury Lane – currently hidden behind building works as they dig up yet another London street – it’s easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. A small, inauspicious entrance complete with red carpet and doorman (my date fleetingly thought I was taking him to Spearmint Rhino) leads you down several long red corridors and flights of stairs until you reach a rather cold, large room – black and shining.

The décor in Tamarai is just weird. I think it’s probably pretty cool, but it’s too cool for me. Dark, and low lit, with TV screens showing lotus flowers opening set into black padded leather walls, six foot light features, silver candelabras, black vases, white roses and a blue bar that seems to float on the huge black dance floor.  Some of it works – the tableware is fantastic, think curvy knives that look like mini samurai swords, wonky glasses and triangular plates. But some of it doesn’t – the light features change colour so quickly it’s disorientating and if you’re facing one for your entire meal it gets annoying.

But the food is wonderful. And well priced – with starters from £5 and mains at around £14; it’s even better if you’re there on the 50% off food deal they’re currently running.

We were recommended to start with four to five starters and then have a curry each. Black prawns and soft shell crab were a particular highlight – rich tasting, hot and full of interesting flavours. The main course options are a bit limited – there’s only six dishes, and one vegetarian – but the green curry and Malay beef we had were excellent. Authentic tastes, and complemented by fabulous burnt garlic rice.

Service was fairly ordinary, brisk but informative and the food came out fast. However the haggling that went on after I asked them to take off the £14 discretionary service charge put a dampener on an otherwise pleasant evening.

Tamarai seems to attract a lot of girls nights out, hen parties, the odd business dinner and couples taking advantage of the 50% off food deal; but it was a nice atmosphere and everyone seemed to be having a good time.

The problem is that there’s something slightly unconvincing about Tamarai – it delivers on food, but it doesn’t know what it’s trying to be anywhere else. Dark and glittery works in a nightclub, but it doesn’t work in a restaurant – I hated having to squint to read the menu and not being able to see my food properly. And having a huge empty dance floor in the middle of a restaurant just makes the place feel empty; even if it isn’t.

It’s a shame, because the food is excellent and good value for money. That said, I would go back – I just wish they’d turn some goddamn lights on.

Tamarai
167 Drury Lane
Covent Garden WC2B 5PG

 Tel: 020 7831 9399